If you’re in Queenstown and you have a full day then a Nature Cruise on Milford Sound is something that you really need to experience. I know I’ve been glazing New Zealand for the past couple of write-ups now but this place is just chock full of experiences that are awe-inspiring and just plain beautiful. The package I booked is on Klook and it’s called the Queenstown Milford Sound Full-Day Nature Cruise.
Milford Sound: New Zealand’s Most Famous Fjord
Outside of Klook, you can check the Pure Milford website for the details of the tour. The package I took was the Coach-Cruise-Coach (this was the name on the website, the Klook listing is essentially the same) which cost more or less 265NZD for one adult. What was great about this package was that it included pickup by bus at Queenstown where I was staying. Details as to the pickup locations as well as how to get your boarding pass will be provided via e-mail so make sure to check yours after you’ve completed your booking.
Included in the package is a pass for lunch though there’s also a cafe onboard the catamaran. If you do plan to get additional food from the cafe then you’re going to need to bring extra money as it won’t be for free.
Bus stopped at few stations before reaching the Milford Sound, took around 5 hours from Queenstown. The whole ride from Queenstown to Milford Sound took about 5 hours. Now, you’re probably thinking that that’s a lot of time wasted on the bus ride. Thankfully, that’s not the case. There were a number of stops which featured some notable attractions that made the whole bus ride a little more memorable.
Eglinton Valley
One of the notable stops was Eglinton Valley which, at the time of my visit, was covered in snow. It was honestly quite picturesque though I did hear that it might have looked better in the spring and/or summer seasons. Still there were plenty of views to like here and if you fancy reading, you’ll find plenty of detailed infographics talking about the area as well as some of the animals you might come across.
Just look at this view and tell me you’re not impressed. I’ve come across a lot of otherworldly sights here in New Zealand but this really takes the cake. Now I’m actually thinking of coming back here to see what it looks like in the spring or summer.
I’m not sure who made this snowman but it absolutely looks cute. My guess is that this was probably the work of another tour group with passengers that had plenty of time on their hands.
If you want to add to your knowledge about Eglinton Valley then you definitely need to read this. The infographic details how this valley was shaped by water. Yes, much like Milford Sound, the valley came to existence thanks to erosion caused by glacial runoff. The difference between the two was that the fiord got filled by water since it was closer to the Tasman Sea while this valley is further inland.
Speaking of infographics, this one features details about a parrot called the Kea. What makes this bird special is that it’s the only parrot that makes its home in an Alpine environment. Typically you’d see these birds in tropical climates so this was surprising to know about. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any Keas during this stopover.
I’m not sure what these mountains’ names were but they looked absolutely grand. They weren’t as tall as some of the mountains I’ve been to here in New Zealand but they were still impressive nonetheless. It was late winter when I visited so a lot of these peaks still had plenty of snow on them.
Reached Milford Sound
After a number of other stops, our bus finally reached Milford Sound. Now, you’re probably asking, what the heck is a ‘Milford Sound’? Despite having sound in its name, it’s actually a fiord that connects to the Tasman Sea. Anyway, this is the entrance to the port and as you can see, it was extremely busy during my visit. A lot of this has to do with the fact that Milford Sound is one of the most popular destinations in New Zealand and it’s even been called the eighth Wonder of the World by no less than author Rudyard Kipling.
While waiting for my turn to board, I checked out this map featuring the route that the cruise would take. Seeing this actually made me feel excited as this was going to be the first time for me to be on a cruise this year. Moreover, I’d already spoiled myself and seen pictures of these places and boy were those photos mesmerizing.
Oh look, our ride is here! You probably noticed it on the map earlier but the mountain in the background is called Mitre Peak. It’s said that the mountain’s distinctly shaped peak prompted Captain John Lort Stokes to name it after the mitre (or headwear) of Christian bishops.
Here you’ll see the Gem of Milford, one of two catamarans that Pure Milford uses for this cruise. Catamarans are considered much faster than monohull boats since they’re designed to glide through water. That being said, you’re still going to have more than enough time to enjoy the views even with the faster cruising speed of the catamaran.
This is the complimentary lunch that I got using the lunch pass. I’d also included other items just so I would have a more complete meal. Overall, these were delicious though definitely not the most memorable meal I’ve ever had.
You know what was memorable? The views! For the longest time I’d always wanted to go to Norway and see their fjords. Little did I know, there’s one here in the Asia Pacific region with infinitely better weather and equally stunning views.
Some of the things that you’ll immediately notice here are the presence of these waterfalls. They vary from these small trickles to decently sized ones like Stirling and Bowen Falls. Moreover, a lot of the falls you’ll see are temporary and are caused by heavy rainfall in the surrounding areas.
So I said earlier that there’s a commissary here and pictured above is the prices of the items that it sells. Other than food, you can also get soft drinks, beers, and even wine by the glass. As for pricing, these are pricier than if you bought from a convenience store. For example, a can of Mischievous Kea typically sells for 6NZD online but here it’s at 12NZD. Now, this is to be expected so if you want to save a little you might want to consider bringing additional food with you.
If there are items here that I’d recommend it’s probably these motion sickness and travel remedy snacks. Now I’m not one to easily get seasick so I didn’t end up getting any. That said, not everyone has a high tolerance for sea travel. Considering how fast a catamaran travels, it’s probably a good thing that you can find these here.
Now you’ve probably seen this waterfall earlier and might be wondering what its name is. This is actually the Stirling Falls that I talked about a couple of images ago. The catamaran was still far off from the falls though so this image really doesn’t do justice to how awesome it looks up close.
Here’s another boat that I think was also carrying visitors on a tour of Milford Sound. So I tried looking it up and I found that the number of visitors who come here annually can reach up to around a million. Those numbers are quite impressive and easily makes this one of the most popular destinations in the country.
Inside the catamaran you’ll come across this large map detailing all the notable attractions, landmarks, and even animals you’ll come across in Milford Sound. I was particularly excited to see some dolphins but alas, my luck wasn’t great that day. Still, I got to see some New Zealand Fur Seals so all’s well ends well I guess.
I don’t know if it was just the people I was with during this tour but almost everybody was on the deck. It was kind of refreshing to see that people were actually enjoying the views as well. Of course, I spent a reasonable amount of time inside but it was mostly so I could take pictures of the interiors for this writeup.
It’s quite understandable why people would prefer to be on deck rather than inside. With sights like this (of Stirling Falls dwarfing another touring boat), you’re really doing yourself a disservice if you don’t take at least a couple of pictures of them. Moreover, the breeze on the deck was actually quite refreshing.
Here’s some of the smaller waterfalls that dot Milford Sound. It’s not as majestic looking as Stirling Falls but it does look very enticing. Also, at the base of the falls right where it meets the fiord’s waters you’ll notice a slight hint of a rainbow!
If I’m not mistaken, this particular pair is called Fairy Falls. And with the rainbows they were making, I kind of understand why they would be named that way. These were definitely nice but the volume looked pretty anemic relative to Stirling Falls (and especially when compared to Bowen Falls).
It’s easy to forget since you’re surrounded by cliffs but Milford Sound is a gateway to the Tasman Sea. This is near its entrance and you can see quite clearly just how vast this sea is. Of course, looking at this the whole time could get a little boring so make sure to look around as there are plenty of nice views here still (as you’ll see in the next couple of images).
At this point, the people I was with for this tour were visibly enjoying themselves. I wasn’t able to keep track of each and every one of them but the majority actually stayed here on the deck rather than inside. There were others of course that didn’t seem all that much interested. Now I’m not really sure why that was and frankly, I didn’t bother with it as I was more concerned with enjoying these views.
One of the things that you’ll notice when you’re here is just the contrast of the views. I’ve talked about how contrast makes certain views look more appealing and that’s certainly the case here. The height of the peaks here perfectly contrasts the flatness of the water’s surface. Balancing these contrasting elements is the negative space that formed from the mountains’ silhouettes.
Speaking of mountains, here’s one of the other prominent peaks in Milford Sound. It’s called Cascade Peak and it’s not quite visible but the waters below it is Harrison Cove. Known as the only safe natural harbor in Milford Sound, the cove features the only floating underwater laboratory in New Zealand.
So if you’re wondering why it’s called Cascade Peak, it pretty much has to do with the waterfalls that flow down from its sides. You actually can’t see from this far but there are a number of those waterfalls if you go up close.
Another feature of Milford Sound that will be apparent during the cruise is the absence of beaches. This is due to how this body of water was formed. Unlike your typical coastal beach this fiord was formed by glacial erosion. Essentially, the glacial runoff eroded the rocks to form a valley that was then filled (up to a point) by the Tasman Sea.
From this angle, you can clearly see the entrance to Harrison Cove. If you have the time and aren’t intimidated by Milford Sound’s depth then you can look into kayaking tours here. Again, these are deep waters so make sure you know what you’re doing or you’re confident in your swimming abilities.
Now there are areas where you could theoretically step foot on but these are usually rocky like in the image above. Once you do get on these rocks, there’s almost no way to go up due to the cliffs’ steepness as well as the denseness of the trees. Really, a cruise is quite possibly one of the only convenient ways for you to see all of Milford Sound’s features and attractions.
I initially thought that all the greenery here were just shrubs but if you looked closely, you’ll notice that there are some pretty large trees here. A lot of the cliff faces here actually looked like they were overrun by these trees like the one in the image. As for what trees these are, I’m not really sure. My guess is that they’re most likely native or endemic to the area rather than European transplants (as those are typically deciduous).
Remember when I said Milford Sound was formed by glacial erosion? These waterfalls are evidence of that. Aside from rainfall, a lot of the waterfalls here are fed by glacial runoff from the numerous mountains surrounding the fiord. As for the glaciers that actually carved the fiord, those were gone more or less 16000 years ago.
So we’ve finally reached one of the more notable views here in Milford Sound. Aptly called Seal Rock, this is a boulder that has become popular because of the many New Zealand Fur Seals that rest here. When I took the picture there were unfortunately only two that showed up though typically you’ll find more.
Did you know that New Zealand’s Fur Seal population was almost hunted to extinction in the 1800s? Thankfully, the seals have made a comeback and it’s estimated that their present population has reached two hundred thousand. As for why they stay here at Seal Rock, you’ll see in the next couple of images.
Notice anything yet? That’s right, the reason why the seals stay at Seal Rock is because it’s one of the few places where they can actually rest. If you look at the last two images, there simply aren’t that many rocks or beaches here. As for why there were only two seals there when I took the picture? Well, your guess is as good as mine.
Our catamaran was finally able to get close to Stirling Falls! It was quite honestly really nice up close and for some reason, I wanted to actually swim around the waters here. Unfortunately, swimming isn’t allowed here thanks to the extremely cold waters (remember these falls are fed by glacier runoff from the surrounding mountains) as well as dangerous currents.
After Stirling Falls, the cruise brought us to Harrison Cove where we caught sight of the floating underwater laboratory. It’s actually possible to book access to the laboratory and see the underwater environment of the fiord without having to use scuba gear. That said, I’m not sure where and how to do this. I’ve read that it’s very limited and as a result you might have to book in advance.
Aside from the floating underwater laboratory, you’ll also see the tallest mountain here in Milford Sound. This is Mt Pembroke and it actually has a glacier sitting on top of it that shares its name. The Pembroke glacier has been dated to be over a million years old and it’s been around since the time of the glaciers that shaped the fiord.
Much like a lot of the glaciers here in New Zealand, the Pembroke glacier is also melting at a fast rate. This is a trend that has been worsening with climate change being pointed to as the main culprit. As for the runoff, it’s actually what you see at Stirling Falls.
The other notable waterfall here at Milford Sound is Bowen Falls and unlike Stirling Falls, it doesn’t directly get its water from glacial runoff. This one is much closer to the port and when you notice that you’re already near it, it’s likely that the cruise is already coming to a close. It’s not as visually stunning as Stirling Falls but it does look like it’s much more powerful.
Unlike the majority of the other attractions here at Milford Sound, there are a number of ways to enjoy Bowen Falls. One of these is by approaching via the sea through a kayak tour or boat cruise like the one I was on. The other is through a scenic 30-minute walk from the Milford Sound port to a viewing platform with a clear view of the falls.
Now regardless of how you get close to Bowen Falls, I can guarantee that the effort will be worth it. As I said earlier, the falls is much more powerful and it’s not shy in letting you hear about its power. Aside from the sound of the water crashing on rock, you also get to see rainbows galore.
I did say earlier that Bowen Falls is not supplied by glacial runoff. Instead, it has the Bowen River supplying it with water. Now while there are rivers here in New Zealand that are fed by glacial runoff, the Bowen River mainly gets its water from rains in the Darran Mountains.
At the end of the day, how Bowen Falls is supplied its water isn’t that big of an issue. As a visitor to Piopiotahi (Milford Sound’s Maori name), you’re likely going to end up appreciating the beauty and power of this wonder of nature.
We’ve finally gotten back to port and boy was that an adventure. The Gem of the Sound was one of the smoothest boat rides I’ve had in a long time and the whole cruise was pretty laid back. Other than this, Pure Milford also has another catamaran called Maiden of Milford that it uses for the same purpose. I’m not quite sure of the differences between the two (if there are any) though I’d think these would probably be minor.
Take note that it’s not just Pure Milford that offers cruises around Milford Sound. As you probably saw earlier, there were other ships carrying visitors and touring them in these waters. Here you’ll see a couple of them docked and most probably waiting to take another set of passengers on a cruise of the fiord again.
And thus my Milford Sound experience ended. Overall, I think this was such a nice tour albeit a little pricey. Do I think it was worth it though? Yeah, I definitely think that the more or less 265NZD I spent on this was more than justified. There are plenty of reasons why this place nets a million visitors annually. Now, I will say that it might not be for everyone. This is pretty much a linear and on-the-rails experience. What I mean by this is that a lot of your interactions will be determined by the bus ride and the boat cruise. It’s not as immersive as trekking the Hooker Valley Track or even Castle Hills. Still, I think this was worth it just for the views alone.
Ever been to Milford Sound? What did you think of the place and how was your experience when you visited? If you’d like to share these with us then make sure you hit the comments section below!
