The Hooker Valley Track is a quintessential hiking trail in New Zealand that I think no visitor to the country should ever miss out on. I was quite lucky to have had the chance to visit during the winter season and I will say it was quite a breathtaking experience. If you’re interested, scroll down to see the pictures I took as well as read what I think of this trail.
Hooker Valley Track in Mount Cook: Why This Should Be On Top of Your New Zealand Itinerary
Now, this isn’t the first hiking trail that I’ve been on here in New Zealand. Last time out, I talked about Castle Hill and how memorable of a hike that was. Hooker Valley is a much different beast though. For one, the track is much longer with the time it takes to complete it being around 3-4 hours (at least when there isn’t any construction or obstruction on it). On top of this, it also has even more memorable views that I’d recommend making sure your phone or camera’s battery is at full to not miss out.
Anyway, the Hooker Valley Track is quite famous so there are plenty of tours that can get you there (and back) from either Christchurch or Queenstown. In the image above, you’ll see where the track starts at the White Horse Hill campground. In the background you’ll also see a glimpse of Aoraki or Mount Cook. It’s not pictured but behind me is the carpark.
Here’s a view of Mount Cook a little farther off from the Hook Valley Track signboard in the previous image. Like I’ve said in my other write-ups, I visited New Zealand during the winter season hence the snow in this area. So if you plan to visit from June to August then I’d highly recommend bringing really warm clothes. This is especially true if part of your itinerary is hiking the Hooker Valley Track.
From this view, you can see the first couple of meters of the track. I initially thought it was going to be a really rocky trail but it was actually quite the opposite. Yes it was strewn with pebbles but these weren’t the large kind and walking through the trail, you kind of forget that they’re even there.
Before they set out on the trail, I’d recommend visitors here check out this map of Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. The map features information not just about the Hooker Valley Track but also other trails like Red Turns Track, Mueller Hut Route, and the Kea Point Track (just to name a few). From this, you’ll also get to know a little bit about what to expect from the weather as well as the possible dangers the environment here poses.
This is another sign warning trekkers of construction going on in a section of the Hooker Valley Track. I was actually a little disappointed as this meant that I wouldn’t be able to go to Hooker Lake which arguably has some of the best views here. Thankfully, there were still some outstanding views and scenery to be had even with the track understandably cut off on the second river crossing.
So even with the knowledge that we wouldn’t be able to go through the whole length of the track, our group still continued our trek. This small bridge was just after the signs we saw earlier and the view from here was just awe-inspiring for some reason. I don’t know if it was just me but seeing this view really had me pumped up and full of energy.
Now another misconception I had was that the track was going to have lots of variations when it came to elevation. For the most part, it was actually quite flat and very well-maintained. Thanks to this, visitors who are a little more advanced in age can still enjoy the sights and sounds here.
Here’s a small sign with directional arrows pointing to Hooker Valley and Kea Point. Now Kea Point is also another hiking track here that you could opt to visit. In terms of scenery and views though, I’ve read that it loses out to Hooker Valley Track. If you still have the time and energy though, you could opt to check it out as it’s relatively shorter.
Since our group was set on the Hooker Valley Track, we decided to just push through until we reached the second river crossing (or close to it since we’re not allowed to cross). Some of the people I was with were quite excited that they decided to go through the trail at a faster pace. As for me, I wanted to enjoy the experience so I opted to go for a pace that was much slower.
Another reason why I wanted my pace to be a little slower is that there just are plenty of really nice views here. Moving slower not only made it so I could enjoy the views, it also allowed me to take more pictures. This one is a glimpse of one of the more notable views here at the start of the trail.
Before we checked this notable view out though, here are two signs warning trekkers of two of the most common dangers here at Hooker Valley Track. The larger sign talks about avalanche danger while the smaller one warns of icy and slippery sections of the track during winter season. Like with the previous signs, I’d suggest you take a picture of this.
Speaking of pictures, I’d also suggest taking a picture of this covered path. At first I thought this was a pergola but it’s actually just the trees on the left extending their branches across the trail to form a natural archway. Now, I’m not too sure if the trees did this naturally or if the park’s arborists had something to do with it. What I’m pretty sure of though is that it’s easily one of the most magical views on this trail.
After passing through the covered walkway, I was then greeted by another magical sight. Now I was pretty fortunate that today was a rather clear day out here at Mount Cook National Park. Thanks to this, I had this really clear view of the mountain.
Aside from the unobstructed view of Mount Cook, I was also quite thankful that the mountain itself didn’t have that much snow on it. I’ve seen images of the mountain where a majority of its area was covered in snow so this was kind of surprising considering it was still winter when I got here. Now this was favorable to our group since we wouldn’t have to worry about avalanches.
Here’s a sign indicating the presence of a notable area called Freda’s Rock nearby. It’s not quite shown but there’s a trail on the left of the image that you can follow to get to this area. As for why this area is notable, you’ll find out soon enough.
Now if you’re not interested in going to Freda’s Rock then you can just go on ahead and follow the track. Again, the trail here is really well maintained and so far, I haven’t come across any noticeable changes in its elevation. I’d even say that Castle Hill was probably a little more challenging thanks to the stairs and the rugged terrain.
What if you made a short detour to Freda’s Rock though? A couple of meters on the detour and you’ll come across this sign detailing the importance of Freda Du Faur. A pioneering mountaineer from Australia, she became the first one to actually summit Mt. Cook in 1910. This place is called Freda’s Rock because just behind this sign is the rock that she posed on for the picture that was taken to commemorate her summit of New Zealand’s tallest mountain.
Another thing that’s great about Freda’s Rock is the walk back to the main trail of the Hooker Valley Track. Here you’ll see a horizon that’s nearly unhindered by trees or elevated ground and it looks absolutely breathtaking. I’m really at a loss for words to describe the feeling you get when walking on this path while seeing this view.
Seriously, just look at this. Even after this trip, I look at these images and some videos that I took from time to time and I still marvel at the views that I saw here. Again, the fact that the skies were pretty clear was probably one of the reasons why these shots turned out the way they did. So if you want the best views when you visit then I can’t stress enough how important it is to look at the weather forecasts for the area.
Some time after getting back to the main trail, I again came across another signboard pointing to yet another detour. This time, it’s for the Alpine Memorial and while it is optional, I’d highly suggest visiting it. Much like Freda’s Rocks, the memorial is just a couple of meters away. Additionally you’ll also get to see some really cool views and more.
At first glance, you’d think the way to the memorial is a little suspicious. Don’t worry though, it just looks like it because of how overcast the sky was during my visit (it was winter after all). The withered trees lining the path also probably helped make it look really eerie which might scare off most people.
If you get over that initial suspicion though, you’ll find the path will lead you up to these stone steps. I’m not going to lie, this instantly felt like I was going up on an adventure. A word of advice though if you’re with the elderly, you’re probably going to want to watch your steps from this point forward.
Here’s what I meant about needing to be careful when going up these steps. As you can see, the steps here are rocky and while they’re solid, they can still trip up older trekkers. Now I’m not sure if there have been accidents specifically in this area but you can never be too sure (especially considering the nature of the Alpine Memorial here).
After climbing up the stone steps, you’ll come across this sight. Off in the distance, you’ll see this peculiar looking structure. That’s the Alpine Memorial and the history behind it is actually quite sad (more on this later). As for the trail here, it’s still well maintained though I did see some larger rocks along the way that are relatively easy to avoid especially if you’re looking where you’re going.
Here are a couple of the people in our group paying their respects at the Alpine Memorial. So the memorial was basically put up to commemorate and honor the mountaineers and guides who lost their lives here in Mt. Cook National Park. The oddly shaped monument or cairn is made from stones/rocks in the area and surprisingly enough, I wasn’t able to find any information as to when it was put up.
Here’s the path leading up to the Alpine Memorial. This was honestly a little harder to climb up than the previous stone steps though still very manageable especially if you’re already used to hiking. Older hikers might still be able to climb this though I personally would dissuade them from doing so since it’s definitely easy to lose your footing on these steps.
This is what the Alpine Memorial looks like up close. Before I knew anything about it, Initially I thought that this was just your run of the mill tourist attraction. When I did get close to it and read up on its significance, I suddenly felt a sense of somberness. At one point in time, these people probably walked on the same track I’m treading now. The fact that they’re never going to enjoy the views and experiences here in Mt. Cook National Park honestly made me feel a little sad.
Now I might have felt some sadness while paying my respects but I also was able to reflect profoundly on the value of life. It made me realize that I was fortunate to still be alive and experience different cultures and locales through my travels. Of course, some people might not share these sentiments and I think it’s okay. Definitely, check this out if you are able and have a couple of minutes to spare.
Just behind the monument is this wonderful view. Below is a grassy area that is now covered in snow while off in the distance you’ll see parts of Mt. Sefton and Mt. Cook. That general direction is also where Hooker Lake and the end of the Hooker Valley Track is.
Now this is what you’ll see if you looked at the opposite end of the view from the previous image. The flatlands that you see in the background is actually where the water from the Tasman Lake (more on this and the Tasman Glacier in another write-up) and Mueller Lake (delivered by the Hooker River) meet to form the Tasman River. Going back to the Alpine Memorial, from this angle you’ll also notice a number of plaques seemingly attached to the monument’s base.
A closer look at the plaques will reveal that these are actually the names of the mountaineers and guides who’ve lost their lives here. Aside from their names, some of the plaques also indicate the dates as well as the area of the national park where these people lost their lives. Again, being here can be a sombering experience which can also be a great time for reflection.
After checking out the Alpine Memorial, it was time to move on. I thought that I’d already covered plenty of ground but as it turns out, I was still less than halfway to the Lake Mueller Lookout. What was even more surprising is that the Lake Mueller Lookout itself is only about a third of the way of the whole length of the Hooker Valley Track. Thankfully, I didn’t really feel like the distance was an issue at this point as I was still pretty pumped up and energized.
Moreover, you really won’t feel the fatigue when you get to see views and scenery like this. The silence here gave off a sense of tranquility that I think only a few places can replicate or much less top. I also tried looking up whether it was better to visit the Hooker Valley Track in the summer and it seems like there really isn’t any consensus as to which season is the best time to come here. I am definitely interested in checking this track out again in the summer if I’m able to visit again.
Now one thing about this part of the trail that stood out (aside from it being so close to the mountain) was how wet it was. If I’m not mistaken, this is largely due to the melting snow. Still, there wasn’t too much to worry about as the trail was still very passable. That said, you’re probably going to want to make sure that you’re looking where you’re walking just in case.
Here’s how the fields surrounding the track looked during my visit. As you can see, the snow here has also melted making the grass quite wet. On a side note, I’ve seen how this grass looks in the summer seasons and it probably is one of the things I’m looking forward to seeing once I do get back here in the future.
As I got closer to the foot of the mountain, I noticed the path getting even more scenic with its twists. Here is another group that I was able to catch up to who also seemed to be taking their sweet time with their hike. One of them was actually an older individual who still looked very game and spry for their age.
I’m now very close to the mountain when I took this picture and from this point, it seemed like the scenery was starting to turn white. No, I wasn’t experiencing a whiteout. Rather, it seemed like the snow here was much thicker than in the earlier parts of the trail.
Aside from the grass, the mountains also had what looked like a thick covering of snow on them. Of course this is to be expected considering how higher altitudes are typically colder which then means snow doesn’t melt as easily there. Moreover, the peaks of these mountains are also covered by the Mueller Glacier which we’ll get to know more about later.
Remember how I was talking about the Lake Mueller Lookout earlier? Well, here’s a sign on the trail pointing to where it is. The lookout is really just an enclosed area overlooking Lake Mueller and it’s actually just a couple of steps from this sign.
Now before we go to the lookout, notice how the snow forms on the mountain in the background. If the snow was a lot thicker, it’d be really scary going continuing through the trail. Looking back, I was really fortunate that the snow wasn’t thick enough for an advisory to be raised that day. That said, avalanches do occur here even outside the winter season so you’d do well to still be mindful of the advisories made by the NZAA.
Here’s an infographic on the lookout detailing what’s currently happening on Lake Mueller. It talks about how the area is ever changing and that a hundred years ago the Mueller Glacier (where Lake Mueller gets its water from) used to cover even the valley floor. The infographic also touches on moraine or rock rubble which you can actually see in the background along with a glimpse of the First Swing Bridge.
I know I said that Castle Hill had some really alien landscapes but the sights and sounds here at Hooker Valley Track are even more otherworldly. Lake Mueller in particular looked absolutely astonishing thanks to its pale blue/turquoise colored surface. I knew that it was cold but for some reason I really wanted to dip into those waters.
Here’s another angle of Lake Mueller. It was actually quite loud here largely due to the stream flowing from the lake that would soon turn into the Hooker River. You’ll also notice just how expansive the Mueller Glacier is. It’s even crazier to think that the glacier actually used to be much larger.
Looking closer at the lake and the glacier, you can kind of see where it used to be and how it mostly has receded. I did a little research on it and I found that the number one factor contributing to its shrinkage was global warming. While the glacier is receding, Mueller Lake on the other hand, is actually expanding. You might not believe it because of its size now but the lake actually just started as a collection of melted ponds back in the 1990s.
Now it’s not just the Mueller Glacier that’s been affected by the rising temperatures. If I remember correctly, one of the sources for my research said that glaciers here in the Southern Alps (which Mt. Cook and the other mountains in this area are a part of) have all been losing their volume at an accelerated rate since the late 1970s. In fact, another glacier nearby called the Tasman Glacier has been losing a whopping 100 meters of its length on a yearly basis.
With the sightseeing done at the Lake Mueller Lookout, now it was time to continue. The next notable location we’ll be passing through is the First Swing Bridge which you probably saw when I took that picture of the infographic earlier. The walk across the bridge was actually one of the things that I was looking forward to on this trip so I definitely felt excited going back to the main trail.
And you really couldn’t blame me for being excited as even from here, the bridge looks like it’s going to be fun to cross. I was actually thinking of bringing a drone just to follow me around as I crossed the bridge but then I realized that might not be ideal because of how windy this area is. Now if you’re a good drone pilot then I guess this shouldn’t be a problem though don’t say I didn’t warn you.
The path leading down to the First Swing Bridge was still very well maintained. Unsurprisingly it was also quite easy for even older individuals to get down because of how flat and wide the steps were. I still think you’re going to want to accompany older members of your group while they go down here but it’s not as precarious as the path that led up to the Alpine Memorial.
If you thought the sight at the Lake Mueller Lookout was nice then you’re going to absolutely like what you’ll see once you get down to this area. From this vantage point, I already knew the views I’d come across were going to be special. Oh, and at this point the sun was starting to show itself and its light really improved the quality of the pictures I took.
I mean just look at this! I’ve probably been repeating this ad nauseam but the whole trek here felt like the most adventure-y thing I’d done this whole year. Now don’t get me wrong, there were places in Japan and Chongqing that definitely had a similar vibe. That said, they never really could quite capture the mix of excitement and awe that I experienced here.
Since I couldn’t quite contain my excitement anymore, I decided to hurry to the First Swing Bridge. The area surrounding the path leading up to the bridge did show signs of snow on them but like with earlier parts of the track, the level here wasn’t that high. That said, it did feel a little cooler here though so again, make sure to get your warmest set of clothes once you do get to this area.
Before I was able to start crossing the bridge, I came across this warning sign. Basically, it’s a warning to not cross when there are already 20 people on the bridge. Now, this wasn’t really an issue during my visit since there weren’t that many people but I’ve read that there are times when the park is just inundated with tourists. If you experience that during your visit then you’d do well to heed this warning sign.
I’m finally at the bridge! As you can see, it’s quite a popular photo spot for visitors here. The two people I pictured were taking their time snapping pics of each other that I was a bit hesitant to get on the bridge myself. And really, I couldn’t blame them for wanting to take as many snapshots of themselves with this area’s views as their backdrop. On a side note, there’s also a written sign here warning visitors that the bridge’s capacity is only 20 people at a time.
Since I was also in a bit of a hurry, I decided to get closer to the bridge and start taking my own pictures. I started with the bridge itself which most other English speaking countries call a hanging bridge. As for the two individuals I pictured earlier, they already seemed to have winded down their picture taking efforts so that meant it was my turn the moment they crossed the bridge.
While waiting for them to finish, I took pictures of the moraine below the bridge. As explained earlier, these rock rubble came from the mountains from when the ice from the Mueller Glacier melted. Now you’re probably thinking, “what if more of these rocks come tumbling down the mountain?” Well, that’s actually a valid concern.
You see, rock slides here are a pretty common occurrence. These rocks typically slide down connected to parts of the melted glacier. Other times, these come from tectonic movement. The mountains here are constantly being lifted by this natural phenomenon and as a result of these shifts, rocks that are loose tend to then slide down. Thankfully, catastrophic rock slides aren’t that frequent with there being only one every 20 or 30 years.
With the sun finally up, you can now see why the Hooker Valley Track is so popular among regular visitors. There are places with views/vistas that make you feel alive and the First Swing Bridge just so happens to be one of those. I mean, just look at this view and honestly tell me that you’re not impressed.
If you weren’t impressed by the previous image then how about this? I’m probably just preaching to the choir at this point but I have to say this: it was so worth it to come here. The way the clouds here wafted from the glacier after a strong wind really made my jaw drop (figuratively of course). And of course, the stream’s greenish-blue/turquoise water here was unlike anything I’ve seen in my travels so far.
Take note, I’m not a National Geographic photographer. It’s just that the view here is so good that you might be a total beginner and still come up with amazing photos. Hell, you could probably point your camera randomly and you’d still end up with a decent shot. A big reason why I think this place is so photogenic is the quality of light that you get here. I mean, the light is so good that even the shadow areas seem to radiate thanks to the contrast (much like in the background).
It’s not just the upstream Lake Mueller direction that has great views though. Here’s what the downstream view looks like and it’s not half as bad. In fact, I think it’s quite charming in its own right. Again, the light is so good that it just seems to highlight even the areas where it doesn’t reach. I really can’t seem to remember another location that I’ve visited that had light that was this good.
I’m now somewhere in the middle of the hanging bridge and the views just keep coming. Oh my Lord. At this point, I was actually thinking that there’s no way this could be topped. Thankfully, I was wrong and there were even more opportunities for me to use my cameras later.
And with this picture, my time here at the First Swing Bridge comes to an end. At this point, I’d already walked more or less a kilometer and I was still raring for more. In fact, the view actually reinvigorated me for some reason and this in turn made me feel even more energized.
After getting past the bridge, I then came across another set of stairs. These looked very much like the ones I used to climb up Castle Hill. Much like those set of stairs, this was pretty easy to go up on and I think you won’t have any issues with it (even if you’re at a more advanced age).
So you might remember the warning at the start of this walk regarding the ongoing construction at the Second Swing Bridge. Thanks to that, our walk would be only up until the Mount Sefton Lookout. And after just a couple of meters from the set of stairs in the previous image, I came across what I initially thought was the lookout. Turns out, this wasn’t it. That said, it still featured really compelling views.
Much like the First Swing Bridge, the view here was unreal. In front of me was Mt. Sefton and the Mueller Glacier covering it. Then below this ledge you can see Mueller Lake’s turquoise waters. For a moment, there was this bittersweet feeling welling up in me knowing that this is the end of the trek (well, I still needed to get back to the campground but you get what I’m saying).
By this time the sun was fully shining and it just hit differently on top of Mt. Sefton. I decided to stay a while because I really didn’t feel like going back. That bittersweet feeling was still there but now it was also mixed with a little hope knowing that there was still a next time.
While the geography is undoubtedly the main draw of the Hooker Valley Track, it does still have plenty of nice plants that you’re probably going to enjoy taking pictures of. I wasn’t quite sure what this shrub was but it was impressive that it managed to survive and seemingly thrive in this winter season. Moreover, the way it interacts with the snow and the sun’s light made it stand out so much that I had no choice but to take a picture of it.
Here’s another great example of the scenery here. At this point there was a little fatigue setting in which I thought might be because of altitude sickness. Then I remembered we were only 900 meters above sea level which, while relatively high, doesn’t come close to the minimum elevation where you can expect altitude sickness to rear its ugly head.
A couple of steps from the view in the previous image is this wooden trail path. Now you’re probably thinking what the chicken wire is there for and it’s actually quite simple. Remember that snow is just water vapor that’s been cooled due to the drop in temperature in the atmosphere. Basically it’s water. When it comes into contact with wood and it melts, it then makes the wood slippery. With the chicken wire, you’re going to get more traction and therefore minimize accidents caused by slippage on this wooden trail.
Moving on from the wooden trail, I then came across these trees that look like they’re about to form an archway (much like that part of the trail that I passed by during the start of this hike). With no more clouds obstructing it, the sun was out in full force. Despite it being out though, I didn’t really feel the heat that much. Of course, this was to be expected considering how it was winter when I was there.
Walking away from the previous image, I then came upon another wooden trail. Like with the previous one, this one also had chicken wire covering its walkway. From here, the sight of Mt. Sefton drawing ever closer absolutely had me feeling excited again for some reason.
So I’m not sure if it’s just me but the more I get closer to Mt. Sefton, the taller it seems to actually get. I mean seriously, when I was down near the level of Lake Mueller it didn’t seem like it was large at all. Now that I’m at a higher elevation as well as closer to the mountain, it absolutely looks enormous.
You’re probably thinking, why did I post the same picture of the mountain twice? If you thought this was the same as the previous image then you might want to have your eyes checked. Both images have the same background but they’re actually from different points in this area. The mountain is just so large that you can take pictures of it from different points and it somehow still looks the same across the different images.
With this, my Hooker Valley Track experience is almost at its end. If I followed this path, it would bring me to the Second Swing Bridge that was still under construction at that time (as of this writing it still is). I really was hoping that a miracle would happen and I’d be allowed to go past the construction but alas, I wasn’t that lucky this time around.
Even though I wasn’t able to trek through the whole length of the Hooker Valley Track, I still ended up very content with the experience after. Once the sun came up, the whole trek up until this point became a visual treat. I’ve been saying this constantly throughout this review but the quality of the light here just makes every image you take look like it was shot by a professional.
There’s a reason why the Hooker Valley Track is as popular as it is. I think that if you have a limited number of places to visit in New Zealand, then this definitely should be near the top of your itinerary. There are of course instances where you might not be able to access everything here (like in my case during my visit) so make sure that you research about the park’s avalanche advisories and notices. Overall, this trek through the Hooker Valley Track was more than worth my time.
Ever had the chance to stay at Hooker Valley Track? If yes, make sure that you share your experience and insights on the track down in the comments section.
