In my recent trip to Chongqing, I managed to visit the Hongyadong Folk Custom Scene Area and was utterly impressed with what I saw. No, check that. I was more than impressed. The place had an energy to it that I think is reflective of what China is right now.
Hongyadong Folk Custom Scene Area: Chongqing’s Most Popular Tourist Spot
First off, the place was very busy when I got there. This is a popular tourist spot (and some would even argue a tourist trap) and it typically gets crowded during the night time (just like in Ciqikou Ancient Town). From this vantage point, you can see a number of restaurants, the most prominent of which has an ad for its Sichuan 9-grid hotpot.
Other than the view of the restaurants, you also get to see how busy the Jialing River Riverside Road is below. This scene is at the Northwest Gate entrance and it might seem like there aren’t that many people here but believe me, it can get very busy. In fact, the next image should give you an idea of how absolutely bonkers the crowds here can get.
So this is a more comprehensive view of the Northwest Gate entrance and would you just look at that crowd on the other side of the road. This was very late in the afternoon and a lot of the people here were likely tourists looking to take pictures of Hongyadong at night.
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Here’s another (and closer) look at the activity area below that also includes a view of the establishments in the very first image. You’ll notice how extremely well lit the place is and that’s actually by design. Once it’s evening, the whole place just lights up and it becomes like a completely different world.
This is the on the ground view of the activity area. As you can see, it’s a very popular spot for taking pictures (aside from Liziba Station maybe, where you can see trains going through a building!). In the background is a cordoned off area reserved for diners. And if you remember the other side of the road with the crowd earlier, you can actually still see that there are still plenty of people there.
Since it was already getting dark, I decided to head outside to prepare to get pictures of Hongyadong and its many establishments at night. At dusk, you can actually now get an idea of how the lights will look once night time rolls in. As for the establishments in this picture, they’re mostly restaurants or food shops that specialize in Chongqing cuisine (and if you’re really looking for a lot of them here, you can go to Bayi Food Street and Guanyin Bridge Food Street).
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Here’s a look at the entrance and adjacent structures to the Hongyadong Night Market Area. I will say that this architecture is really impressive (just like the Chopstick Building). Initially, I thought that these have been around for decades or even centuries much like the buildings I saw in the temples and shrines I visited in Japan. Turns out, these were relatively new. According to some of the sources on the area that I found, the present Hongyadong was built in 2006 (though the area has been settled since BC 1046).
One thing I really liked about the Hongyadong Night Market area was just how full of life it was (very similar to Testbed 2). Maybe it was the combination of lights, people, and the noise but there was an electricity to the whole place that was really palpable. My trip to Japan was solemn, here it was the opposite though still very positive.
If you’re wondering, this shot was taken on the road leading to the parking lot near the Northwest Gate entrance. At this point, night time was setting in and you could now clearly see just how nice the lights are here. It was also at this time that I noticed how some of the walls here looked like ramparts. I’m not sure if this was intentional but it does kind of reference how Hongyadong used to be a fortress centuries ago.
As you can see, it wasn’t just me who was taking pictures here left and right. Plenty of other tourists were also lined up here pointing their phone cameras at the place. Not that I blame them though since the lights and the structures themselves really just commands your attention even from a distance.
Speaking of the structures, much like Chongqing, Hongyadong has multiple levels. What I mean by this is that you might think you’re at the ground level but you’ll find that there are stairs that would lead you lower. It’s kind of nifty and makes exploring the area somewhat satisfying.
Now I said that exploring the place is somewhat satisfying but I would add that it’s not for people who hate crowds. Chongqing has an estimated population of 32 million and it’s one of the largest cities in the world. Aside from the foreign tourists, you’re also going to be ‘competing’ with the locals for space and it can get gnarly at times.
Now despite the crowds, I still think Hongyadong is well worth visiting. It’s really an experience more than anything. I would even say that it’s probably one of those places that can really stimulate all your senses with its visuals, the sounds, taste (there are street food stalls and establishments all over), and the packed crowds.
At this point, it was full blown nighttime and the whole place looked like it was bathed in gold thanks to the lights. It’s also at this time when you really get to see and feel the crowd.
If you’re feeling adventurous then you can brave this sea of people and explore the shops and stalls here. In my case, I decided to check out the view of Qiansimen bridge instead.
After crossing the road to get closer to the river walk, I finally got a really good glimpse of the Qiansimen Bridge and the busy Jialing River underneath it. The bridge is part of the Twin River Bridges along with the Dongshumien Bridge. It’s a cable-stayed bridge and it features two levels. The upper level is for pedestrian/automotive traffic while the lower one is for high speed rail.
After taking pictures from close to the river, I decided to go up to the level of the Qiansimen Bridge so I can then take pictures of Hongyadong from there. Here is a closer look of the bridge as I was going up to its level. From this point, you can clearly see the cables bolted to the bridge’s upper level. If you look down below, you’ll also get to see how red the river looks thanks to the light from the bridge.
I’ve finally reached the upper deck of the Qiansimen Bridge and all I can say is that the views here are just amazing. As you can see, there are still plenty of people going in and out of Hongyadong. The place is open 24/7 though if you’re after this view then you might want to be here before 10PM as the lights are usually turned off by that time.
Here’s another view of Hongyadong from Qiansimen Bridge. One thing I noticed during this visit is how the whole place really gives the area (and the city) a lot of character. For a city that’s replete with skyscrapers, the sight, sounds, and taste of this place is like a palate cleanser. I would admit that the crowd is a big letdown but it also adds to the charm of the place.
I’ve read that Hongyadong is considered a tourist trap. In a way it is, but I also genuinely think that visiting here at least once is a worthwhile experience (and I highly recommend staying at the The Humble River View Hotel). It’s free to explore and is open 24/7 to boot. How about you? Have you been to Hongyadong Folk Custom Scene? If yes then share your experiences with us down at the comments section!
