After spending sometime there, now I finally understand why most people consider Kanazawa an underrated travel destination. It’s understandably overshadowed by Tokyo and Osaka but by no means do I think that it’s inferior. In fact, I actually think that in some ways, it might be better than both.
One aspect that I think make Kanazawa stand out is the variety of the activities that you can do there. I was there for around three days (check out my itinerary) and I ended up having almost no time for rest. If you’re interested in the activities that I took part in, make sure to read through to the end!
9 of the Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Kanazawa
1. Kanazawa Station
I genuinely thought Kanazawa station was just some run of the mill railway station that I’d just pass through. Turns out, it’s actually quite an interesting landmark in itself. The Tsuzumimon Gate pictured here is the perfect symbolism for Kanazawa. It features Western-influenced design while still being rooted in Japanese culture and traditions.
Another landmark facing the Tsuzumimon Gate is the Fountain Clock. It really doesn’t have an official name but it has become quite popular. It probably helps that its one of the first things people see after they exit the Tsuzumimon Gate.
2. Omicho Market
A visit to Omicho Market is another activity that I’d recommend if you have the time. You typically want to be here in the morning as there are some shops that close early in the afternoon. As for what to expect, it’s actually much more relaxed here than Tsukiji/Toyosu Market in Tokyo. Make no mistake, it still is noisy (what market isn’t?) but it’s definitely not as hectic and bustling. If anything, there’s actually more of shopping district vibe to it.
These are the types of seafood you’ll see as you step in to one of the shops/stalls here at Omicho Market. In this particular image, you’ll find Matsuba crabs of varying sizes, horsehair crabs, and even some pre-packaged uni. As you can see, these don’t come cheap so if you plan to get some make sure your wallet can take the hit.
If you thought the prices on the previous image were high then get a load of these. Again, these are Matsuba crab which are a seasonal delicacy that’s typically only available during the winter season. Of course, the price is understandable considering an order of these typically has 3-4 crabs.
Here’s another angle of the crabs. I forgot to mention this earlier but these crabs were on display at the Oguchi Suisan “stall”. I placed the stall in parentheses because really, it looks more like the wet market in a typical grocery store. I’m not going to lie, these looked really tasty. If I had more money than sense, I’d probably have ordered one or two of these crabs.
So remember when I said the word stall wouldn’t accurately describe Oguchi Suisan’s space here at Omicho Market? Well, here’s what the Oguchi Suisan space at Omicho Market looks like. It really is spacious and calling it a stall would just be inaccurate.
Since I’ve been talking about them for some time now, you might then be wondering who are what Oguchi Suisan is. Well, they’re one of the many fish traders who call the Omicho Market home. If I’m not mistaken, they’ve been around since the mid-1940s and they’re currently known for selling fresh, frozen, and processed seafood products. This picture was taken at their space in Omicho Market and features some of the processed seafood that they’re selling.
The fish hanging here are salted and dried salmon which in Japanese are called Aramaki. From what I understand these are considered delicacies in some regions of Japan. It’s perhaps because of this that the fish in this picture are selling for JPY6000 to JPY7500 yen.
Speaking of delicacies, here’s a couple of sudako or vinegared octopus. Similar to a lot of the seafood found here at this time of the year, these octopus are sourced from the Noto Peninsula (which also covers Kanazawa).
Other than Oguchi Suisan, Omicho Market also has vegetable sellers such as Daihachi Seika (pictured above). The space here is going to be heaven for people who aren’t too keen on consuming meat. A lot of the products here are sourced locally so you can actually expect these to be really fresh. Also, if you haven’t noticed yet, the space has a vending machine for drinks that you might want to take note of if you do end up visiting here.
Now if you happen to be hungry then there are also restaurants here that serve really fresh seafood. Pictured here is one of those restaurants called Omicho Ichiba Sushi Honten. I wasn’t able to get inside but from what I’ve read online, it appears serve conveyor belt sushi (not too sure). Knowing that they’re literally inside a market, it’s probably safe to assume that their sushi are relatively fresh.
Here’s another shop that sells vegetables similar to Daihachi Seika. Called Tokuichi Shoten, this shop is on Naka Street near the Ichihime Shrine Entrance of the market and just opposite Omicho Ichibazushi Honten.
One thing you might also want to look out for in Omicho Market are food stalls like the one pictured displaying grilled Noto oysters from Nakajima in Nanao City. This display is specifically from Hikariya, a restaurant that’s on the same street and block as Omicho Ichibazushi.
3. Higashi Chaya District & Surrounding Streets
While my Higashi Chaya District walk was severely hampered and dampened by rain, I’d still recommend coming here if you do end up in Kanazawa on your Japan trip. I went here immediately after Omicho Market and I immediately realized that I probably should’ve scheduled my visit in the morning rather than in the afternoon. Not only was it raining when I came here, I also found out that some shops close early and were therefore not available in the afternoon.
Yet despite the inclement weather, I still found a lot of things to like on my walk towards Higashi Chaya District. A great example would be this absolutely stunning view that probably would still look as good whether it rained or not.
I didn’t really talk about this much when I first came up with my review of Higashi Chaya district but there’s actually a park right on the Shusei no michi Street (where I took the picture of the Asano River). The park is called the Higashiyamagashi Ryokuchi Park and had it not been raining, I probably would have spent a little more time there. Instead I took these pics of some of the views there that I thought were interesting.
This and the previous picture was taken near the public restroom of the park. I’m not quite sure what the building is but it does have an interesting design that kind of fuses traditional and modern sensibilities.
Here’s a view of the field area of the park. As you can see, the rain has made the field area quite wet but I’d imagine it’d be great sit in those benches to just rest in drier weather. After this, I headed to the large tree on the left side of the picture and followed the narrow road there leading to the Higashi Chaya district.
By following the road I mentioned in the previous image, you’ll find yourself crossing through the main street in the Kannonmachi area. This specific memorial is found at a historical landmark along the street called the Former Residence of the Nagami Family. If you followed the street to the right, you’ll eventually find Kannon-in Temple which is part of the larger Utatsuyama Temple District.
Here’s a picture taken at an intersection at Kannonmachi street. As I said earlier, following this street will lead you directly to the Utatsuyama Temple Complex. Of course, I ended up choosing the path to the left instead which directly then led me to…
You guessed it, that course would directly lead you to the entrance to Higashi Chaya District. This image was taken just beside the Hakuichi Higashiyama Store and it features the iconic Kanazawa Shitsurae/Sabo Yanagi-an building. There were still a number of people here despite the rain but it’s likely there could have been more if the weather was more favorable.
This is the Hakuichi that I was talking about earlier. The store is pretty popular in Kanazawa and its mostly thanks to its gold leaf soft serve ice cream.
Another establishment that you might want to visit is this tea and confectionery shop called Kazu Nakashima. It might look fairly recent but the shop has actually been in operation since the 1880s. From what I remember, the shop is managed by the fourth generation Kazu Nakashima and it actually has fair reviews on sites like TripAdvisor. What’s really great about it though is that you don’t need to have a reservation to get into.
I’m not quite sure what this street is called only that it’s where you’ll find the map of Higashi Chaya district (which can be specifically found on the side of the Sabo Yanagian café). I will say though that the buildings here all look like they’re really well preserved. From what I understand, a lot of these are still in operation though at the time I was there some were already closed for the day (all the more reason to come here in the mornings rather than in the afternoon).
This is the side street that’s to the right of the Fujitoshi teahouse. It’s a very exclusive establishment where you won’t be able to get inside without an introduction from a regular customer.
A closer look at the yukitsuri on one of the trees inside the Fujitoshi teahouse’s fence. These are used to support trees during the winter season to ensure the branches (and the tree itself) doesn’t fall over when the snow finally falls on them.
If you continue following the side street, you’ll eventually end up in this intersection. Follow this street and you’ll find the Higashiyama Sugawara Shrine (not pictured but it makes up a corner of this block). The building at the end (the traditional looking one) is an antique store called Higashiyama Hisa Ryu that specializes in lacquerware and might also be worth checking out.
At this time the clouds had cleared up a little and the shops had already started lighting up their lanterns/lights. This area was in the opposite direction of the antique store in the previous picture and I was lowkey impressed at how ethereal this area looked. If you moved up this street, you’ll find a number of establishments like Kanazawa Pudding, Higashiyama Robert Dumas, and the Ochaya Art Museum. At the end of this street is a home goods store called Kanazawa Bikari Asano.
Now if you do get hungry while walking around, then it might be a good idea to drop by an establishment like Sawawa. This is a Kyoto-based chain of shops that specializes in matcha-flavored sweets. I came across this as I was heading to the district’s Johoku Dori Avenue exit.
These are warabi mochi that had expiration dates on that day and were then placed on sale. The thing about Japanese culture is that it tends to not be wasteful so these kinds of sales tend to happen all the time. The cup (120g) here would set you back JPY389 while the 250g box went for JPY648.
Here’s a look at the inside of the shop. It’s not just Hakuichi that covers its ice cream in gold leaf. Sawawa also offers its own version with the ice cream being matcha-flavored. It’s a bit expensive though as it costs a whopping JPY1188 as opposed to the other ice cream they sell like the Hojicha that goes for JPY432.
In this section of the shop you’ll find displays for their Matcha Monaka and Matcha Macarons. The former costs around JPY1512 for a box while the latter can be had for JPY1404. These actually seemed like the better buy especially if you’re thinking of bringing them home as a gift/souvenir to friends and family. Off to the side of the macarons are some Warabi Daifuku that cost JPY930 per box.
A display outside of the Sawawa store showing the products from the previous picture along with their respective prices. Additionally, the display also shows matcha latte (iced and unsweetened) that can be had for JPY450.
Another shop selling sweets that you’ll come across as you head on over to Johoku Dori Avenue is Hotaru Kanazawa. From what I can remember, they mainly sold mochi and castella. I think they also have an Instagram account if you do intend to check what else they sold.
If you have time, you can then head on over to Kazuemachi Chaya District. To get here, you’ll need to cross the pedestrian lane as you go out of Higashi Chaya District’s Johoku Dori Avenue entrance/exit. After crossing the pedestrian, you can then just follow the footpath and cross the Asanogawa Bridge. You’ll then see the entrance of the Kazuemachi Chaya District beside the bus stop after crossing the bridge.
4. Day trip to Shirakagawa-Go Historic Village and Takayama.
If there’s one activity that I’d recommend you not miss out on in Kanazawa, it would have to be a day trip to Shirakawa-go and Hida Takayama. You could organize one on your own but I’d highly recommend going with sites like Klook or Viator. I’m not too sure, but I think you could even go to the Visit Kanazawa website and book a trip through there.
The views, especially during the bus ride to Shirakawa-go, are really nice. If you’re planning to go there, I’d recommend stocking up on cameras and/or power banks because more often than not, you’re going to be spending your time just taking pictures of views like this.
The main draw of Shirakawa-go are the gasshou-zukiri buildings such as this one. These are a pretty unique type of building style that’s characterized by steep, thatched roofs that look like they were hands joined in prayer. Shirakawa-go has the largest concentrations of these buildings with some of the most popular being the Wada (pictured above) and Nagase Houses.
While most people would say to visit in the summer, I now think that Shirakawa-go might actually look better during the winter. The quality of the light here during the winter is just different for some reason. In case you do decide to come here during the winter, just make sure that you bring the proper attire as the weather can be a little fickle. Just a word of advice though, while it was fine when I visited, the weather during your visit might not be the same.
In this image you’ll see a souvenir store in the right called Kobikiya. This vantage point is further south of the bus stop and the building with the prominent looking roof in the distance is the Hakusuein Restaurant.
This is a path leading to the Bunroku Inn which happens to be one of the few inns in the area. More importantly though, you can clearly see sheer amount of snow that fell here a day or two prior to my visit.
This is a close up shot of the thatched roof of a gasshou zukiri building (specifically the Kanda House). As you can see, the thatch is extremely thick and roof itself is angled quite steeply. The thickness is likely to ensure it is protected against the elements and the steepness is so that stuff like snow won’t accumulate and cause the roof to collapse.
Here’s the entrance to the Kanda House. This was still closed when we got there which wasn’t really a problem. The Klook package I took was unguided so I had free reign to explore the village for about 2 hours and 35 minutes.
I initially thought that this was just a landmark for the Nagase House (you can see a part of it in the background) which was the gasshou zukiri that I ended up visiting. Apparently, this contains a water cannon and there are around 60 of these all over Shirakawa-go. This is to ensure close access to water in the event any of the buildings catch fire. As for the Nagase House, while it may not look like it, it’s actually 5 stories tall and has quite an interesting history (check out my review of it if you want to know more).
This house was directly opposite the water cannons in the previous image. Apparently, this is actually an establishment called Ochudo Café. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to get inside here considering the huge mound of ice covering its entrance.
If you look closely, the downspout on this roof has actually broken down. I’m guessing this was likely caused by water somehow getting inside the downspout (probably from ice that might have melted) and then freezing as the weather got worse. It’s interesting to note though that the thatch on the gasshou zukiri all seemed fine considering they might have been older than the gutter and downspout shown here. This building by the way, is right next to a soba noodle shop called Nomura.
One of the two religious locations you’ll see here at Shirakawa-go is Myozenji Temple. What sets this temple apart is this unusually shaped belfry or bell tower that also serves as its entrance (in place of a torii).
This is the soba noodle shop I talked about earlier. Much like a lot of restaurants here, it opens at around 11:00AM for lunch service.
I thought that this was another fire hydrant but apparently it’s a mill for rice, barnyard millet/millet, and other grains.
This is a sign inside the Myozenji Temple Grounds that designates the temple as a national monument. From this angle, you can actually see the temple’s bell tower/gate off to the side.
This is Hakuraku, a souvenir store that also doubles as a diner. You’ll come across this place as you go to the other important religious location here in Shirakawa-go.
Aside from visiting one of the gasshou zukiri buildings, I would highly suggest going to Shirakawa-go’s Hachiman Shrine. While it’s a relatively small shrine, it does have a number of buildings and features that could be worth checking out.
What’s unique about the shrine complex is that you’ll need to pass through two torii gates before you can reach the main shrine. Pictured above is the first of the two gates and it actually looks quite nice with the shimenawa hanging from its columns.
Here’s a closer look of the first gate with the second gate and the main shrine in the background. You’ll also notice a tree just behind the first torii gate with its trunk wrapped in shide. This is one of the cedars or sugi that can be found here at the shrine. One ancient cedar here is so old that the village designated it as a natural monument.
Before you enter the main shrine, you will need to use this temizuya which you can find to the left of the second torii gate. Ideally, you’re going to want to wash your hands and then rinse your mouth before you go through the second gate.
The shimenawa on the second gate is actually quite impressive. Its color really makes it stand out in the whiteness snow and its size makes it seem like it’s otherworldly. Behind it, you can see the entrance of the main shrine.
Going inside the shrine, you’ll find this saisenbako. In most shrines and temples, this is typically where you can drop your offering/donations. Off to the side is what looks like an emagake or emakake with some ema hanging on them. Overall, the shrine’s interior isn’t much to look at. You really want to be here during either spring or winter to appreciate the views outside (the torii and sugi as well as the façade of the buildings.
Takayama – Try sake vending machine & walk around the streets
After having lunch at Shirakawa-go we again rode our bus to get to Takayama. Upon reaching the city, I then decided to go to Funasaka Brewery’s shop to test out their sake vending machines. Once there, I then had to get a cup through this gachapon vending machine which I’ll then use for the sake.
Before I could taste the sake though, I needed to make sure I had tokens to use on the sake vending machines. For that I had to use the machine to the right of the guy holding the huge bottle of sake.
Now that I had tokens, it was all a matter of choosing a sake to taste. Each vending machine held two kinds of sake each with three taps. To fill your cup, you’ll need to insert a token into the machine and then just push the button for your chosen tap. As for choosing a sake, you can scan the QR code on display and it’ll bring you to that specific sake’s entry on the Funasaka Brewery website.
One thing you’ll appreciate with these sake vending machines is that each cup is worth the same regardless of the price of the bottle. Whether they cost JPY2200 per 720ml bottle (like the two shown here) or JPY1550, the cost of a cup from these vending machines will be uniform at just 1 token (JPY100).
If you enjoy drinking sake then you’re really going to love it here. That said, you might not want to go overboard on the testing since you really don’t want to be inebriated while going around Takayama Old Town.
Walk around Sanmachi Suji street in Takayama.
Speaking of going around Takayama, I’d bet you’re going to enjoy checking out the sights and sounds of Sanmachin Suji. This is a historic quarter in Takayama similar to Higashi Chaya District that features plenty of shops and stores. This one is a shop that specializes in lacquerware.
Aside from lacquerware, there are also shops that sell Hida delicacies. This one is called Hida Kotte Ushi and if you like beef you’re going to love their Hida Beef Sushi. As you can see, there was quite a line of customers when I went there.
These are the sushi available here. Set A is the regular Hida Beef Sushi priced at JPY700 for two pieces per order. As for Set B, it’s 2 pieces of Hida Beef Gunkan priced at JPY800. Set C and X are Hida Beef Combination (2 Hida Beef Sushi and 1 Hida Beef Gunkan) and Premium Hida Beef both priced at JPY1000. These were actually quite delicious but from a value per pound perspective, they really were quite expensive.
While Takayama did have some old buildings, it was the relatively new ones like the one pictured above that really caught my attention. This Ranka Café building is apparently quite popular thanks to a cappucino made with matcha drink called “Chapuchino”.
After going around Sanmachi Suji, our tour group decided to go to the Takayama Municipal Government Memorial Hall. Thankfully, it was quite close to where our bus was parked. We only had to cross the road here and then cross to the road to the right to get to the old municipal government hall.
Visit Takayama Municipal Government Memorial Hall
Now I know I’ve been calling it a government hall but really this is more of a museum. Admission here is free so this is a great place to familiarize yourself with Takayama’s history without having to pay extra.
Inside you’ll find plenty of graphs and infographics that range from detailing Takayama’s population and demographic shift to its status as the largest city (in terms of land area) in Japan. These infographics were really nice since you don’t usually see this kind of information on travel brochures.
Other than Takayama, there are also infographics for other cities/areas in Japan. Going from the left, there’s a poster for Ichinomiya, Kukuno, Asahi, and Takane. The posters detail the geography, attractions, local produce, and even history of each of the areas. These could end up being great starting points for research if you do plan to visit these locations in the future (much like me).
Here are some of the instruments local officials in the past likely used to conduct the government’s business. On the right is a weighing scale that can measure weights of up to 300 grams. From what I understand, this was likely used for measuring gold and silver coins during and prior to the Edo period.
This is a display that features a merger puzzle for the city of Takayama as well as detailed instructions on how to make its emblem. Other than these, there are also survey questionnaires here. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to read or check out the questionnaire but it probably had something to do with visitor satisfaction.
Overall, the Shirakawa-go and Takayama day trip was more than worth the JPY15000 I paid for on Klook.
My third day in Kanazawa was spent largely at the Kanazawa Castle (and the adjoining Kenrokuen Garden). When it comes to iconic attractions in Kanazawa, I think Kanazawa Castle Park has to be in the top 2 or 3. I mean, it’s so iconic that its Ishikawamon Gate (seen off in the distance in this picture) is considered a prominent symbol of the city.
The path leading to the gate is actually kind of amazing if you come here in the Spring or Summer season. During these times, the cherry blossoms are going to be in bloom and you can expect a very colorful visit. That said, even at the state that they’re in during the winter, there’s still an ephemeral beauty to the sakura trees that I think is worth checking out.
Kanazawa Castle has something for everyone but I think the people who’ll really appreciate this location are those who enjoy castle architecture. I mean, just look at this tower/turret and how pristine it still looks. This particular style of castle architecture is actually called masugatamon and turrets like this plays a crucial role and function in it.
The hallmark of a masugatamon is an entrance gate that leads to a square enclosure like in the picture above. Opposing armies who try to siege the castle will then typically end up here and from the turrets, archers and riflemen can then just rain down projectiles.
If the visiting forces are allies, defenders can then just open the second/inner gate and have them go through here. History lesson aside, from this point you can now see one of the information centers here at the park.
If you ever need any help then the staff here might able to assist you. The information center also has a large map that you’d probably want to check out just so you know where the important locations are here. Additionally, it’s always good practice to check out information centers in places like this as they might have important information pertaining to park safety. During this visit, I found out that some areas were off limits as a result of the Noto earthquakes in early 2024.
Thankfully, the places that I wanted to visit were still pretty much accessible. Three of those places are the Gojikken Nagaya, Hashizumemon Gate, and the Hashizumemon Tsuzuki Yagura pictured here.
Another location that ended up not being affected by the Noto Earthquake was the Hishi Yagura. This turret is connected to the Gojikken Nagaya as is the Hashizumemon Tsuzuki Yagura that I also mentioned earlier. These three structures used to be a part of the original Kanazawa Castle but now serve as a sort of museum that you can pay a fee to enter.
Speaking of fees, I forgot to mention this earlier but entry to Kanazawa Castle Park is actually free. Entry to this whole structure though (as well as other sections of the park like Gyokusen-inmaru Garden) will require you to pay an admission fee.
Like Ishikawamon Gate, Hashizumemon Gate is also classified as a masugatamon. Unlike the former though, this gate has a much larger enclosure. I took this picture near the entrance of the gate and you can see just how far the edge of the enclosure is from where I am.
Here’s the Hashizumemon Gate and a glimpse of the enclosed space inside of it. By following the path here and then turning right, you’ll find yourself in front of the gate that leads to the park area.
6. Kanazawa Castle Park
Now a lot of people (me included) tend to confuse Kanazawa Castle and Kanazawa Castle Park. As I said earlier, Hashizumemon Gate, Hashizumemon Tsuzuki Yagura, Gojikkennagaya, and the Hishi Yagura are part of Kanazawa Castle. On the other hand, Kanazawa Castle Park is where these structures are found. The castle park is quite expansive and it contains other areas with buildings and even gardens that you can access.
A good example of other areas in the park proper that you can access would be this one pictured in this image. The building on top of the hill is called Sanjikken Nagaya and to get there, you’ll need to cross the Gokuraku bridge (which is what the two people in the image are doing).
Another place that might be worth visiting here in the castle park area is the Gyokusen-inmaru Garden. Much like with Gojikken Nagaya, entry here is not free. If you do decide to go here, be prepared to shell out JPY800.
While the Gyokusenin-maru Garden is on the western side of the park, the area pictured here can be found to the north and is called the Shin-maru Hiroba Area. You can access this area through the Kahokumon Gate which is where I’m at as of taking this picture. It’s pretty accessible as it’s just in front of the information center you see as you go through the Ishikawamon Gate.
Another view of the Shin-maru Hiroba area but this time I’m near the Kanazawa Castle Park Ote-Mon Entrance. This might look uninteresting now but the area absolutely transforms during spring and summer once the sakura trees start blooming. If you’re planning to visit Japan for hanami (flower viewing) then you might want to consider checking this area out.
Like I said earlier, people who tend to enjoy castle architecture especially from the Edo and older periods, will love the Gojikken Nagaya and as well as the other structures that make up what’s left of Kanazawa Castle. To gain access to this area, you’ll just need to make sure that you purchase admission from small building in the foreground. The fee is only JPY320 which in my opinion, is well worth paying.
As you enter, you’ll find plenty of these displays explaining the history of the castle. This particular display talks about buildings included in the castle complex like the Ninomaru Palace as well as the destruction and eventual reconstruction of the main palace starting from the Meiji period up until recently.
This section talks about the excavation of the inner moat and stone walls of Kanazawa Castle. Shown on the display are some of the excavated artifacts that include the blade of a katana as well as some arrowheads and even stone blocks.
Perhaps the most interesting of the displays involve these joineries. I think I’ve talked about it this in the past but the way Japanese came up with these joineries that don’t require any nails is really cool. For those interested in knowing what these techniques are called, the left-most is Nagahei Sumitsuke Kusabi Shime, the middle is an example of a Tsukake Sen, and the right-most is a Kusabi Nuki.
Here’s another display that also caught my attention. So unlike most Edo period buildings that I’ve seen that had thatched or tiled roofs, the castle apparently made use of lead instead. As for why they chose this material, well, experts are still not sure. Some experts say using lead wasn’t as heavy on the roof as say thatch. Others posit that since lead was plentiful in the region at that time, they just ended up using it instead of it going to waste.
This is a display featuring the joinery technique used on the buildings’ columns and beams. Again, this technique doesn’t make use of any nails and more importantly, it’s ingeniously designed in a way that helps the whole building mitigate and withstand the effects of earthquakes. From what I understand, it’s able to do this because the technique forgoes rigidity in favor of flexibility. So instead of fighting against the sudden movement caused by a quake, the columns would sway and the seismic forces are then just transferred down to the building’s foundations.
If you look closely, this joinery is quite different than the previous image. This shows the wooden beams and colums just before they’re assembled. It’s actually quite intriguing how the Japanese builders of that time were able to come up with these techniques. Additionally, it’s crazy how these techniques have managed to stand the test of time and how some of them are still used even to this day.
Now this was also a cool display. It shows a scale model of both the Hashizumemon Tsuzuki Yagura and the part of the Gojikken Nagaya that it’s connected to. I think I talked about this when I wrote about my visit to this place but much like the building that I’m on, this scale reproduction also does not make use of any nails.
Of course, if you’re going to Kanazawa Castle Park then you might as well spend some time at nearby Kenrokuen Garden. This was such a memorable place for me just because of how large the garden is. Unlike Kanazawa Castle Park though, you will need to pay for admission here. Thankfully, it’s only JPY320 so it shouldn’t be that hard on the wallet.
Admittedly, coming to Kenrokuen Garden in the winter isn’t the brightest idea. Like Kanazawa Castle Park, the garden is known for its sakura trees. This area would look amazing in the Spring and Summer seaon. That being said, it’s also going to be a little crowded during those times so I guess I was kind of right when I scheduled this winter visit?
This area is called Sakuragaoka which if I remember correctly, means Sakura Grove. Anyway, the Sakura trees here have lost their leaves for the winter and that has made one of the garden’s public restroom buildings to be visible from where I’m taking the picture.
Here’s another angle of the Sakuragaoka area. I’m not sure if people are allowed inside this area. I’ve read online that they allow people to go in during hanami but outside of that, I’m not too certain.
Despite it not being spring or summer, I still think the place is beautiful. The air is fresh and there’s just that energizing feeling that you get when walking here.
I initially had a hard time grasping where this water came from. My first thought was that there was a faucet or hydrant somewhere up the hill that was supplying all this water. As I continued to walk around here though, I eventually realized that this water came from a body of water called Kasumigaike Pond.
Following the water downstream, I then came across this lone fountain which also happened to be in a small pond. I’m not going to lie, at this point in the hike I was actually feeling quite refreshed for some reason even though I’d already covered a whole lot of ground walking in Kanazawa Castle Park.
I finally got to see the fountain up close and I was honestly quite disappointed. I was actually expecting for this place to have statues and some cool piece of Edo period tech. Instead I got to see this plain fountain that didn’t seem to have much going for it. Well, at least that’s what I thought before reading up on this fountain. Apparently, this was the first of its kind in Japan and it’s been here since the 1800s. Talk about history. The fountain is about the same age as the garden itself and it can actually spout water as high as 3.5 meters in the air.
After checking out the fountain, you can follow the stream until you come across the Komonbashi Bridge. By going through this bridge and up the hill, you can then get to Kasumiga-ike Pond which is coincidentally, the source of the water in the stream below.
This is the path leading up to Kasumiga-ike Pond. This was actually quite a serene hike up here so if you do get here, try not to be in so much of a hurry and just try to enjoy the scenery.
From here, you can see the continuation of the path heading to Kasumiga-ike Pond. Also, this scenery was low-key giving me Princess Mononoke vibes for some reason. I was actually expecting those Kodama wood spirits to come out from under the rocks and behind the trees.
Would you look at this view! For the longest time, my preconception of ponds was that they were supposed to be small. Well, that preconceived notion was immediately shattered when I came here to Japan. A lot of the ponds that I saw were exceptionally large with Kasumiga-ike possibly being one of, if not, the largest (right there with Sankeien Garden’s Main Pond). It’s so large that if you looked closely, you could even see an island shaped like a turtle’s shell. If I remember correctly, the island is called Horai which is a reference to an island in Chinese mythology that was the home of immortals.
Unfortunately, you’re not going to find any immortals on the island or even in the pond. With that said, you can expect plenty of wild life here. In the winter season, expect migratory birds like these common pochard to make the pond their home.
Here’s another view of the pond as well as the ducks pictured earlier. Also included in the picture is the Karasaki Pine off in the distance. This tree is actually quite old having been planted here by the 13th feudal lord of the Kaga domain. The original Karasaki Pine was in Lake Biwa and this is basically just an offshoot of that tree that was planted from seeds back in the mid 1800s.
Just a couple of steps away from the Karasaki Pine, you’ll find this Panoramic Viewpoint that as its name implies, gives you a more than 180-degree view of the city of Kanazawa. If you do end up coming here then make sure to look for the signboard (you can sort of see it in the right-most side of this picture) detailing how you should go about appreciating the panoramic view.
I know what you’re thinking. I chuckled a little too (well, maybe I was laughing out loud) when I saw this tree. Kidding aside, this area of Kenrokuen Garden probably has some of the weirdest looking trees I’ve ever seen. I remember talking about this on my review of this place and saying that these trees looked like they were taken out from Salvador Dali’s “The Temptation of Saint Anthony”.
Another area here in Kenrokuen Garden that’s worth checking out is the Meiji Monument pictured here. It has a statue of Emperor Yamato Takeru and from what I remember, it was erected to honor local soldiers who had lost their lives during the Satsuma Rebellion.
As you’re facing the monument, turn right and move towards the stream to get a glimpse of Sekireijima Island. I wasn’t quite sure initially what to make of the things in this island. It had a torii gate as well as an intertwined pine, a yin yang stone, and a five-storied pagoda. It was only later on that I found out that apparently, these are symbols for the cycle of life (yin-yang stone represents birth, the intertwined pine trees symbolized marriage, and the pagoda was for death).
8. Oyama Shrine
If you read my 3-day itinerary for Kanazawa, you would know that I gave Oyama Shrine high praise. It’s quite close to Kenrokuen and Kanazawa Castle Park so it’s pretty accessible. In fact, you could just walk over to the shrine’s East Shinmon Gate if you exited Kanazawa Castle Park from its Nezumitamon Gate (which is relatively close to Gyokusen-inmaru Garden). As for this gate, it’s called Higashimon and it’s typically where you’d exit after you’re done with the shrine visit.
What makes the Higashimon Gate really nice is its mixing of Western/European as well as Asian (mainly Chinese and Japanese) influences. A lot of this is probably thanks to the Dutch architect who designed the gate.
As you can see here, it does away with a lot of the curves and wood of the more traditional gates and replaced them with brick. With that said, there are elements of it that make it distinctly Japanese still. Examples of these are the cherry blossom design on the largest arch as well as the stairs and wooden paneling that you pass by when you go through the gate.
I was actually lucky enough that there weren’t that many people when I visited. With that being said, it was still relatively busy (especially when compared to Shirakawa-go’s Hachimangu Shrine) here at the main hall area. You’ll also notice that there are plenty of taru around the shrine’s premises. These are typically donated by brewery’s in the area and usually this happens during the New Year.
The lanterns you see hanging here are called chochin and they’re basically an acknowledgement of an individual or company’s contributions to the shrine. If your or your company donated to the shrine in some form or another then you can expect your name (or your company’s name) to be written on one of these.
You’ll find these emagake or emakake around the shrine. As implied by its name, it’s just a rack where worshippers can hang their ema. If you want to hang your own ema then just make sure to go to the main hall and purchase one from their receptionists. Other than ema, you can also get omikuji from the shrine’s main hall that you can then tie on designated racks.
Prior to entering the shrine, worshippers will typically go to these chozuya or temizuya (pictured above) to wash their hands and rinse their mouths. The act is more symbolic than it is functional and really it’s just a way for worshippers to symbolically cleanse themselves prior to stepping inside a shrine.
This is a memorial for the wife of Maeda Toshiie, Matsu. In case you haven’t read my Oyama Shrine then make sure you check it out since I detail the story of Matsu there. Basically, her sacrifice (she became a voluntarily hostage to the Tokugawa) secured the domain of Kaga for the Maeda family for generations.
Here’s a view of Ooyama Shrine from the side. You’ll also notice that there’s an installation in the foreground featuring what looks like a large mushroom with some frogs sculptures. This is only one of a few modern art pieces that you’d find here at the shrine.
So this is the rack for hanging omikuji that I talked about earlier. It’s pretty much just beside the shrine and beside it is a cherry tree called a kikuzakura that has quite the history.
9. Nomura Family Samurai House
The Nomura Family Samurai House was also a notable destination in Kanazawa that I think you might end up enjoying. It’s a pretty chill place that’s a lot like the Nagase House at Shirakawa-go. What sets it apart tho is that it’s truly a samurai house as opposed to just the house of the daimyo’s physician.
Much like with the Nagase House, entrance to the Nomura Family Samurai House requires you to dish out JPY550. It’s a bit more expensive compared to the Shirakawa-go gasshou zukiri but only by a hundred yen more or less. Seriously, I doubt that it’s going to break the bank.
Upon entering the house, this suit of armor will be one of the first things you’ll see. I was curious about the armor and checked who its owner was. Seemingly, this suit of armor belonged to none other than the primogenitor of the Nomura clan himself, Nomura Denbei.
Other than the suit of armor, the house also has these small gardens featuring plants (or at least I think they are) and small trees that are covered in komomaki and yukitsuri to keep them healthy during the cold winters here.
Once you’ve gotten further along the house, you’ll come across this butsudan or Buddhist family altar. Like a lot of samurai during their time, the Nomura family ardently practiced Buddhism. Looking back on it now, this butsudan is personally the most impressive I’ve seen so far. The amount of detail on the statue really had me questioning who was the craftsman that they got it from.
Silk was an already expensive fabric so imagine my surprise when I saw this kimono with its varied and complicated designs. I’m not sure when this was made but it does look like it was something that might have been worn through the generations.
And since this is a samurai house, here are some of the katana that its former owners used. According to the appraisal certificate on the wall, the katana on the left is said to have been dated to the Kamakura period and is a product of the Jumyo school (a historical Japanese swordsmithing school).
Samurai were expected to be good horsemen which is why these stirrups probably saw a lot of use. These have silver inlays though so I’m not sure if this was used for ceremonial functions or if it actually witnessed battle in the Edo period.
Here’s a hanging scroll (kakejiku) that typically was hung on an area of the house called a tokonoma. If I’m not mistaken, the house has a number of these areas with the most prominent being the ones upstairs in the rooms close to the tea room.
Now most of the western world’s idea of samurai is that they were these noble warriors who had a thirst for bloodshed and war. While that might have been true for some, the truth of the matter is that samurai were also highly educated. As a matter of fact, samurai were expected to have knowledge of classical studies, the arts, and even calligraphy. As such, it’s not surprising to see this lacquerware inkwell here.
This is apparently a pot made by a prominent late Edo period craftsman named Kutani Shoza. Considering this was likely made in the 1800s, it’s probably safe to assume that the pot might have been a witness of the demise of the Nomura family.
Another display in the museum section of the house that was really interesting was this one that showed the changes in the coinage of Japan during the Edo period. In this particular shot, it shows an ichi-ryo koban leading to Hyoryo Kahei (top left) and Tenpo Tsuho (bottom left).
These are Kanei Tsuho coins and they’re the oldest in this particular display. The coins went into circulation shortly after the Tokugawa came into power and instituted changes on the country’s coinage through the Kyoho Reforms. The coins at the top in this picture are valued at 4 mon each while the ones at the bottom each have 1 mon as their valuation.
If you do end up getting bored of the museum section of the house, you can always go out on the engawa (veranda) and just re-energize by checking out the garden. While the area here is small, it’s actually quite packed with plants as well as garden ornaments like stone lanterns and even yukitsuri.
The pond here also looks very calming and the water was clear enough that you could see the koi just doing their thing. I do kind of get the feeling though that guests aren’t welcomed in the garden area.
Regardless if we were allowed on the garden area or not, I do appreciate the views here. This shot was particularly the one I was most proud of as I think it perfectly captured what seemed like the garden’s timeless beauty.
This was probably one of the saddest things that I came across here in the Nomura Family Samurai House. It’s a nightingale box and as its name implies, a nightingale was supposed to be placed in it. What happens next is that the nightingale would then sing and this would serve to entertain the lord, his household, and visitors. As someone who enjoys the company of animals, it’s kind of hard to imagine a good life for the nightingale inside that box.
Anyway, there is another garden area that you’ll come across as you go up to the house’s tearoom upstairs. This one isn’t as impressive as the main garden earlier though.
Here are the steps heading up to the tea room. It might just be me but I found these to be really uneven albeit really cool. I am not sure though if this was part of the original house. My guess (and I might be wrong) is that this is likely a relatively new addition just owing to the use of concrete.
And this is the house’s tearoom. It actually has a really nice view overlooking the main garden below and overall, the vibes in this room are just immaculate. I will say though that it was kind of a bummer that we couldn’t witness a tea ceremony during the time we were there. Then again, if there was a tea ceremony scheduled then I probably wouldn’t have been allowed to take pictures.
Here’s a better view of the tearoom showing its windows as well as a heater. Directly opposite this room is an antechamber where guests could wait their turn for the tea ceremony. That antechamber is also the one that has a tokonoma that I was talking about earlier.
So that pretty much wraps up the list of things I would recommend doing when in Kanazawa. Have something you’d like to add? If that’s the case then make sure to get in touch and make your voice heard through the comments!
