If you’ve never been to Oyama Shrine before then hopefully by the end of my review you’ll include it in your itinerary the next time you visit. While I came here some time during the winter season, it’s still worth checking out. The views here were great and the atmosphere was serene and surprisingly peaceful.
Oyama Shrine: Finding Peace and Tranquility in the Middle of Kanazawa
Here’s a sign we saw as we made our way to the entrance. Along with a signboard enumerating other tourist attractions in the area and their distance from this location, there was also a map that you could refer to if you want to double-check where you are.
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I must say, the gate pictured here was probably one of the most imposing structures I’d seen during my stay here. If I remember correctly, this is called the East-Shin Mon Gate of Oyama Shrine (not the main gate).
The gate is quite high and I think it’s one of the best representations of Japanese Edo-period architecture. I can confidently say that this gate is just plain beautiful. I just love how its massive scale is contrasted by the really fine details in its carvings (just take a look at the dragon!).
This was an interesting read as most online sources peg the gate’s completion to have been 1875. Apparently, the gate is much older and was even once situated in Kanazawa Castle. It then was moved to the Shokon Sha Shrine in the 1870s and eventually was disassembled, transferred, and reconstructed to its current location in 1963.
I then found myself inside the Oyama Shrine grounds. I love pebble walkways and this was one of the best that I’ve stepped my feet on. If you’re not too keen on walking here, you’d be glad to know that there’s a regular paved walkway off to the side.
One of the first things I saw while walking around was this large stone that had writings on it. I wasn’t able to ask around about it but it seemed like it was a memorial.
A description of the Kanaya-Demaru, the area that the Oyama Shrine was built on. According to this description, this area was where the retired lords, members of the lord’s family, and their heirs were housed.
This was most definitely a memorial for possibly a lord or member of the Maeda clan. Surprisingly, there were surprisingly few monuments/memorials like this at least in the shrine area.
What there were plenty of though were trees. Like with a lot of the parks that I’ve been to in Japan, Oyama Shrine had sufficient tree cover to make you not worry about getting sunburnt.
The shrine featured a mix of evergreens and deciduous trees that gave plenty of shade (at least the evergreens did) for visitors. At the time of my visit it was still winter so the deciduous trees had shed their leaves and were supported by yukitsuri. I was told though that the place is very different during the spring and summer seasons (especially when the cherry trees get their blossoms).
Completed in 1981, this sculpture is called the Boshi-jyunpu statue and it depicts a mother holding her child on her back. According to my research, the statue was made by Toyama Hirano and the Japanese Eternal Youth Foundation. I’m probably the only one who thinks this but despite looking impressive, the statue does feel like it’s out of place in relation to the other objects/attractions in the shrine.
I’m not gonna lie, I really wanted to check out the pond here at Oyama Shrine. I had spent time in Naritasan Park as well as the Nomura Family Samurai House and enjoyed just watching the koi swimming in the ponds there.
Going back to my tour of the shrine, I came across this interesting sign. Apparently, this is a chart showing the lords of the Maeda clan and their respective wives. Based on the chart, there were a total of 17 successive lords (after Toshiie).
So the reason why the chart featuring the 3rd to 17th lords was there earlier was because they were enshrined here at Kanaya shrine. This area is where the Maeda residence was said to have stood and I must say, there’s an eerie yet comforting atmosphere here that’s quite hard to describe.
I’m not sure if this is a conscious choice by the caretakers of the shrine but leaving the moss to grow on the stone lantern structures gives off a time-worn and somewhat elegant vibe to them. Another thing I’ve noticed is that while the shrine is considered a tourist spot, I didn’t really see that many tourists out and about during my visit there.
A closer look at Kanaya Shrine. While it doesn’t look as impressive or as elaborate as the shrines I saw in Naritasan, I feel like the simplicity of its design makes it stand out more. Whereas the halls in Naritasan Shinsho-ji temple complex were memorable, this shrine is more ethereal.
“What the heck are these?” These were the words that first came to mind when I saw these stones. They were different from the memorials I saw earlier and they didn’t seem like they were that well maintained.
Thankfully there was this sign that precisely tells you what these stones are. So remember the Atlas Stones in those strongman contests? Well, these are Banmochi stones and they serve a similar function. What sets these particular stones apart is that they are said to have been given by the Maeda family. Aside from that, the stones are also said to grant good health to those who touch it.
I’m not quite sure what this stone lantern was. It seemed like a monument and I’ve actually seen pictures of it going around the internet.
I will say though that it does look impressive. One thing that I’m not too sure though is if its color is supposed to be like that. The pictures I saw of it online made it seem like it had a much lighter color. Then again, it could just be the sky being a little overcast when I was there so it didn’t look like its pictures online.
We’re finally at Oyama shrine itself. It’s definitely larger and more grand than Kanaya Shrine but it still retains that simple elegance in its architecture and design. Moreover, what really draws your attention especially from this vantage is that sculpture in the foreground.
This lotus leaf and frog sculpture definitely didn’t come from the Edo period. Most likely this is a more recent addition much like the Boshi-jyunpu statue I talked about earlier.
See those pieces of paper tied to the beams on that structure? Those are called omikuji. They’re similar to the ema we see at Naritasan and they can be bought from Oyama shrine. These omikuji were likely from the New Year as this custom is usually observed during that time of the year.
If you’re familiar with gachapon, omikuji are basically similar to that but instead of items, they deal with fortunes/luck. The fortunes in an omikuji can range from really bad (Dai-kyo) to really good (Dai-kichi) and you won’t know what you’re getting until you’ve bought and opened it. The omikuji tied here are most probably for good to really good fortune. For bad fortune omikuji, you’re going to want to tie them to pine trees instead.
I wonder what kind of fortunes these people got from their omikuji? As for me, I decided to not get an omikuji considering my luck really isn’t that great (though it’s not that bad either).
Right next to where you can tie your omikuji is this interesting cherry tree. It’s called a kikuzakura and it actually looks like a chrysanthemum. This one in particular, has a really rich history which you can read on the sign (with Google Lens). Seriously though, I highly recommend reading the story of how it came to be here!
Finally, I’m now at the statue of Maeda Toshiie. Known for his yari (a kind of spear), Maeda was one of Oda Nobunaga’s leading generals during Japan’s Sengoku period. He was one of the most influential daimyo of his era and you could even argue that this influence has transcended time.
Here’s a short history of Maeda Toshiie’s life which I also recommend that you read up on (use Google Lens or Apple’s Visual Intelligence if you don’t know Japanese). To say that his life is interesting is an understatement.
I said earlier that I enjoyed ponds and now I’m here at the Oyama Jinja Shrine Garden to do just that. Before I take in the sights and sounds of this place though, I’m going to check what that sign says.
Okay, so I knew that there was a garden here but I always thought it was constructed at the same time as the shrine. Based on this sign though, they already started building the garden before the shrine’s construction. Also, the fact that the central islands of the pond was shaped like the musical instruments in the Imperial Court actually makes me want to see it more.
Okay, so I really couldn’t make out what instruments the shape of the islands were inspired by from ground level. That said, the pond does look like it’s a great place to take a walk.
If you did as I told you and researched about Maeda Toshiie’s life then you’d know how equally important his wife Matsu was to the clan. Thanks to her sacrifice, the Maeda’s were able to end up with the winning side in the Battle of Sekigahara and cemented their hold on Kaga for generations to come. As such, this stone relief was made in her honor.
Here’s a more in-depth account of her story that I also highly recommend that you read.
Much like with a lot of Shinto shrines, visitors who wish to visit Oyama shrine will need to perform Temizu in a chozuya. Temizu is a Shinto ritual where a practitioner purifies their hands and rinses their mouths using water.
Also known as a temizuya or suibansha, the chozuya has this large basin in its center called the chozubachi. This large basin/container holds the water that is used for the purification ablutions.
It might look tempting but please don’t drink the water here! This is strictly to rinse your hands and mouth as a symbolic gesture for cleansing your body and mind before you enter the shrine.
Other than following etiquette, another reason why you don’t want to drink the water here is that it’s just not hygienic. This isn’t a drinking fountain so this water isn’t treated to be potable. By drinking this, you’re risking a bad time.
You saw the rack for omikuji earlier, now I’m here at the emagake. This is a place to hang ema which at first glance might look similar (because you also hang them) to omikuji. These two are way different from each other though. Ema are much more personal as they contain a person’s wishes or prayers.
Once you’ve gone through the temizu, you can now go to the shrine. Up front, the shrine looks more imposing though I still felt like I was welcome as I went up those steps.
I used to wonder what these lanterns were and just recently learned that they’re called chochin. Not only do they serve as decorations but they also are a form of tribute to the shrine’s major sponsors. If a company or organization contributes to the shrine then its name is typically written on one of these lanterns.
Here we have Oyama shrine’s saisen-bako. Once you’ve put in your offering and said your prayers, you’re then going to need to bow twice and then clap your hand once.
Now this is probably one of the most interesting things I saw in this shrine. So basically this is an explanation for yakudoshi. This is a Japanese term that refers to what is considered to be an unlucky time for a person. For men, yakudoshi is to be expected once they reach 25 and 42. On the other hand, women are said to experience this the moment they turn 19 and 33. The sign also shows the age celebrations for longevity which starts at age 70 then moves up to 77, 80, 88, 90, and 99.
This is where you can buy your omikuji. During busy times like during New Year, expect the place to have a really long line. Thankfully it wasn’t as busy when I visited (just like when I went to Higashi Chaya District during a cold, rainy afternoon).
There are various omikuji that are available for purchase here. For people who want to know what their love fortune will be like, the love omikuji can be purchased for JPY200. The other omikuji (specifically the ones to the right of the love omikuji box) are priced higher at JPY300.
There’s a hole at the top of this box where you can drop your payment. Once you’ve dropped your payment, you can then just take an omikuji from the box. The whole process is honestly pretty straightforward.
Now this was an interesting omikuji. The sign says that it’s Kotodama Omikuji. What this means is that, using your smartphone, you can listen to your fortune instead of just reading it. Take note though that you’ll need to use data on your phone to access the voice recording for your fortune.
Other than the love and kotodama omikuji, the shrine also has male and female specific omikuji. What sets this omikuji apart is that it includes a netsuke that has a single word inside that’s also supposed to beckon good fortune. From what I understand, unlike omikuji that you tie to a rack or pine, this one is meant to be worn (either on your bags, shirts, or connected to your smartphone). As for the omikuji to the left, these are generational omikuji and are targeted for people of s specific age range.
Here are some of the ema that was likely made and hung in the New Year.
Also referred to as the ‘God Gate’, this is Oyama Shrine’s Shinmon Gate and I think it might be the most unique gate to a Shinto shrine that I’ve ever set my eyes on. For one it seems to incorporate foreign architectural influences such as European arches and the use of bricks. These contrasted with the presence of the torii gate in the distance truly makes the pagoda stand out.
So I was actually ready to go home but then I saw what looked like a monument and some stairs right next to it. I was a little confused as to what this was but then my curiosity got the better of me!
The monument (I’m not really sure if it is one) looked really eerie and I was actually having second thoughts about following the stairs. That said, there weren’t any warnings to not go here so I decided to just follow where the stairs led.
I must say, this was probably the longest flight of stairs that I climbed up that day. Remember I had been walking for quite some time at this point so I my legs weren’t really that fresh.
Somehow though, all the weariness that I’d been feeling at that point gave way to relief and a sense of peace. What awaited me was a really calming view that featured two monuments that I didn’t bother reading. I tried to soak in the soothing calmness of the view and decided to really end my tour of Oyama Shrine.
Walking through the Higashimon Gate, I can’t help but marvel at how awesome this place is. Over in the distance I can clearly see the streets of the city and how that contrasted with the history behind me. I think the shrine’s charm is that it’s able to connect the past to the future in such a unique and creative way.
Here’s a view of the Higashimon gate from outside of the shrine. This was also probably one of the last pictures I took of this awesome place.
Welp, that’s my Oyama Shrine experience. I think visiting the place is one of the most worthwhile activities to do when you’re in Kanazawa. It’s a great way to soak in the history and culture of Japan without having to shell out a lot of money. Additionally, you might find that walking around here is one of the best ways to recharge and calm your senses.
Ever been to Oyama Shrine in Kanazawa? How was the experience for you? It would be nice to hear about your experiences here!
