If you’ve been in Shin-Kobe Station as much as I have, you’ll know you pass by the ropeway behind it all the time and never even notice. But after finally taking a moment to look up at the little gondola things going up the side of the hill, I knew I had to check it out. And it turns out one of those spots where you feel totally far away from the city but are only a few minutes above it is the Nunobiki Herb Gardens.
I wandered around them for an entire afternoon. And it was just what I needed. Half the fun is getting here, from the station its just a short walk to the ropeway, which takes you soaring over Kobe and the harbour far below like this: Once you reach the top, there are the gardens flowing down the side of the mountain through various terraces.
They include greenhouses, herb beds, viewpoints, and some very European-looking buildings that nevertheless don’t seem out of place. I visited during late fall, which was also Christmas decorating time, so holiday decorations were mixed in with everything else.
A Fun Day at the Herb Gardens
Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens
Back at Shin-Kobe, I headed out the rear of the station and down to the ropeway station where autumn colors was already well underway around the base. The ropeway station itself is quite small, it’s basically a ticket counter and little waiting room before you board. I picked up a roundtrip ticket and checked my bearings on the map.
The gardens are actualy larger than I thought, with multiple levels the higher you go.
I looked around one last time at the maple trees near the bottom station; they was all in bloom, which was a nice sendoff before boarding. But really I was curious how the trip would be.
As soon as the gondola began to go up, I understood why there is so much hype for this ride. There’s a glass panel on the floor that lets you peer directly down. It is slightly nerve-racking initially, but it’s also rather awesome once you pass the tree-filled slope.
Up we went, above the trees, and I found myself constantly turning around to gaze downwards along the cable line where other gondolas ascended and descended.
As we rose higher, the city revealed itself beneath us. Kobe stretched out before me and I saw it all. The entire layout stretched toward the port, and from there the view simply improved.
I came out at the top station, and was directed by signs to various parts of the gardens. They had already put up some of their Christmas decorations, this is one of them: a large cone-shaped tree frame positioned beside entrance archway. It was a little early for all that, but I was not complaining because it added a little something extra to the place.
The weather was clear so I made my way directly to the viewpoint first; after all, what better use of good weather than to spend it looking at views? The vista stretched all the way out to the sea, and there was even a helpful plate identifying the landmarks you could see. it was a proper sweeping view.
It is the sort that makes you stand still for a while.
Continuing deeper in the gardens, I found that they had set up a smallish Christmas market with several booths and some Tudor-style buildings. While not massive, it did have a good amount of people milling about. The half-timbering was a nice touch.
I know this is really trying for that slightly European look the gardens seem to aim for. I saw a couple decorative pieces throughout, garland wrapped around the buildings, plant-topped sculptures, and a clock tower building as well.
One of the buildings contained a mix of exhibits. There was a glass display with a detailed miniature model and an autumnal flower arrangement using pampas grass. An old copper distillation still, presumably used to make oils or other herb-based concoctions, was stashed away in a corner.
The building itself featured a rotunda topped by a slate roof; through its windows, I caught sight of the clock tower from a different vantage point.
Paths snake around to connect the various terraces. They form the layout of the gardens, which run down the hill in stepped terraces. I wandered down from the building marked as The Veranda.
Beyond a tangle of bare branches, I saw a cafe terrace with tables and umbrellas up, ready for people to sit outside.
And even though it was well past prime season, the flower beds were still at it. There were beds filled with salvia in several shades and stocks. There was one circle bed with folks lined up taking pictures of themselves.
Truth be told, the gardens weren’t as empty as I thought they’d be on a weekday afternoon. Each had little stone benches tucked away inside the flower beds. A thoughtful addition for those wanting to sit awhile.
The herb section took me some time to wander, each plant labeled on a piece of wood.
And there were beds labeled lavandin, obviously; others filled with conifers that has turned for fall. And they’d written words on the ground in various edible flowers (which seemed a little gimmicky. But also kind of charming).
The Glass House, a row of dome greenhouses built into the side of the hill with views out to sea, was one of the main attractions here. From afar, I spotted them and then went down to have a look in. The glass caught the suns rays.
Pampas grass grew along the outside, swaying and gleaming in the light. Outside, there were information boards about all the roses and other plants they cultivated, too.
The greenhouses were filled with all kinds of seasonal displays and trailers, and it was all so hot and steamy inside. They’d set up a whole section of poinsettias for Christmas, along with cyclamen and other flowering plants climbing up towards the glass roof.
Outside in another greenhouse, they had set up a whole display of herbs growing in pots; stepping in there was almost like entering another world. Beyond the main display of plants, we saw some rooms filled with dried herbs and flowers that all fit together in one space. Bundles of herbs hung on the wall, a large arrangement was suspended from the ceiling, and a table was set for a romantic meal in a rustic dining room.
It looked like someone’s idea of a cozy farmhouse, with wicker furnitures, pressed-plant frames, and wooden decorations. While a little contrived, it wasn’t bad, and a welcome respite after being outside all day. They were outside again.
There was another terrace cafe with wrought-iron tables placed beneath a covered section, more star-shaped light decorations they’d strung up, some salvia growing on the edge of the terrace, and more dried herbs and flowers hung from the wall. Closer to entrance of The Veranda building, someone had created an elaborate Christmas display made of wooden stars and gift boxes.
I went back out into the greenhouses again, and this time through the tropical section. Here was where everything was totally unlike the rest, a jungle of sorts, full on lush and thick. Palms grew along the walkways, ferns were everywhere, and bougainvillea scaled up the trellises; air plants trailed down in winding lines from the roof.
A stone path wound its way through the center of it all and I just took my time as I walked it.
Scattered among the greenery were a few sculptures… A mother and child statue and a tree fern reaching up towards the glass roof. Mostly I was simply basking in the heat and greenery after having been out in the cooler air.
However, it added a little gallery feel to the area.
I went to another of the top terraces. It had an octagonal glass cafe building with outside seating and another fantastic view across Kobe. I sat on one of the parasols outside for a while and gazed out at the city from behind the railings of the terrace.
If you’ve been walking about a fair amount it’s a good place to stop: the cafe wasn’t very busy and you get a nice view.
Eventually I found myself back at the ropeway station, pausing on the way to admire camellia blooms against a backdrop of fall leaves in a gazebo. By this time the light had begun to shift as it softened in the late afternoon.
On the way back down, I took another empty gondola and enjoyed the view of Kobe spreading out beneath me once again (in reverse). As with riding up, the trip down is equally enjoyable. Perhaps more so since you get to see the city and sea the whole time.
Before I knew it, I had spent a good three or four hours up there. The gardens are much larger and more diverse than I anticipated, and it’s easy to get lost among them all while walking around. The Nunobiki Herb Gardens are a great place to escape the city for a couple hours if you find yourself in Kobe with some extra time.
and wander through the herb-filled greenhouses, gardens and viewpoints that fill the space. I visited in the fall, just before winter really got here… And loved it, though I imagine it would be fun any time of year, depending on what is in bloom.
Have you been up to the Nunobiki Herb Gardens? Do you know of another garden/ropeway spot in the Kansai area to check out?
