My trip to Japan included trying gyukatsu twice and frankly, I couldn’t decide which one was best. In Kyoto, there was the classic version of what everyone describes, Motomura. Then there was the slightly upscale version in Kanazawa that felt nearly zen in its presentation, Kyoto Katsugyu.
Gyukatsu is beef cutlet fried rare (and pink) on the inside; it sounds so simple but it all comes down to execution. Here is what I learned from each location. This will help you see how they differ or what they do differently.
Which Gyukatsu is Better? Motomura vs Kyoto Katsugyu
Gyukatsu Motomura
On a crowded street, the sign outside is easy to spot. You will know that you are close to the Kyoto branch long before you reach the door. Going into this restaurant I had actualy no clue about what to expect; thankfully I noticed a couple of boards on my way inside explaining the queueing system and displaying pictures of some of their dishes.
When we arrived there was a brief queue which, although not awful, did indicate that this remained a popular restaurant amongst visitors as well as local people.
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The menu is simple and laminated inside. I was only interested in trying their signature gyukatsu so I ordered that set meal with nothing else added to complicate matters. Single item options and drink choices is also listed if you want to add anything extra.
Otherwise, everything is included in the set.
Then came the main event: a cutlet, some shredded cabbage, miso soup and rice, plus a tiny side dish of pickles. I was realy impressed by how well-done this is, the meat retain its pinkness in the center despite being fried. It’s got that crunchy panko crust on the outside but then you slice it open and there’s a nice juicy steak-like center.
It comes already sliced so you can see how thick it is right away.
If you like, there are some hot stone grills to cook your slices a little further. For comparison, I had a try at one slice right from the dish and another cooked on the stone. It was good and gave an extra layer of flavour (char) while allowing me to cook each mouthful to my desired level of doneness.
It is a practical touch if you prefer your beef well-cooked, but it is also a cool interactive twist on things in general. Overall the experience was very relaxed, efficient and the sort of place that you could return to time after time without over thinking it.
Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu
I also visited the Kanazawa outpost of Kyoto Katsugyu, located within a hotel building. It was as posh as Motomura, with its small display shelf and traditional noren curtain at the entrance, but seemed a notch (or two) more formal in feel. There was a sign in the lobby pointing guests toward the restaurant floor.
Inside, there were wooden tables with counter seats and paper lanterns strung across the ceiling in the dining room. While it was quiet and calm compared to the bustle of Motomura, it was by no means stuffy. A table became available for us so we sat down and opened up the impressively thick menu.
As for the menu: It’s an experience all by itself. The menu arrived as a dark hardcover book with a gold cow emblem stamped on the cover. It contained pages of photos of each set configuration, diagrams explaining how to select what to order, and breakdowns of various cuts of beef, complete with explanations about how to choose what you might want.
A guide to the accompanying components… The miso, wasabi, and cabbage, explained everything that comes along with each set. I liked the detail, but it made ordering feel more complicated then it needed to be.
They offer premium wagyu sirloin sets, tenderloin, aging striploin, even seafood varieties with prawn, and various combinations of chuck flap and thick tongue katsu. You can upgrade to special versions of Japanese beef too, and mix and match accordingly; prices increases quickly depending on the cut you choose. I ordered a mid-range set featuring sirloin; not the most budget-friendly option, nor was it the highest-end wagyu, but fine for me.
Some of the sets looked too beautiful to be eaten (mini-works of art), all lined up just right.
There was a how-to-enjoy page telling you the best way to enjoy your gyukatsu, as well as a list of drinks and desserts that included some matcha options. Everything was really carefully presented in a very curated fashion, like they wanted you to come into this meal with an expectation of what it should be.
I was there during the seasonals, which included Noto beef premium wagyu and winter yellowtail katsu. , highball with Kyoto whisky). While that gave it an extra touch of occasion, I only came for the regular food: to see how this restaurant’s version of gyukatsu compared to what I’d tasted at Motomura.
Everything was plated and polished nicely when I got it, and all elements were present and correct. It was clearly a much higher grade of wagyu than Motomura… More marbled, which means it’s richer, more buttery but also more heavy.
It was good quality and I did enjoy it but to be honest, I missed the simplicity and more pungent flavours of the less marbled beef from the Kyoto restaurant. That said, this is very obviously high-quality beef if that’s what you seek. While they both make fantastic gyukatsu, they are aiming at a very different experience.
Motomura is all about energy and straightforwardness, good if you’re looking for a no-fuss, quick but satisfying meal. In contrast, Kyoto Katsugyu in Kanazawa is more refined with higher end cuts of meat and a menu that reads like a beef textbook. Depending on my mood, I’d be happy to go back to either place.
But if forced to choose between the two, I think I might lean towards Motomura for that easy-going vibe and the fact that I didn’t need to read a novel to figure out what to eat. Have you ever eaten gyukatsu? Do you prefer the casual or the upscale version of this type of meal?
