Speaking of Osaka, I have to say that it was a pleasant surprise to spend some quality time there. There’s something about the city that you can’t quite put your finger on. It is half moddern hustle and half old-world tradition, all wrapped up in a big ol’ helping of food.
This is not some well-curated list of things you should go see; these are simply where I went, and what happened when I got there. There was a little of this, there was a lot of that, some places completely lived up to their reputation, and others left me slightly disappointed. I ate way too much.
My feet ached from walking around so much. And I snapped more pictures than one person could ever need (at least in my opinion).
My Honest Osaka Travel Guide
Osaka Castle Park
On a beautiful fall day, I took a stroll around Osaka Castle Park.
Those are maple trees, and they were showing their fall colors. But that wasn’t all that struck me about the park, which is, as it turns out, quite massive (way larger than I expected).
After an hour of strolling, I hadn’t even reached the castle yet. Early on, however, I spotted the outer moat and, more specifically, how it reflects the citys modern skyscrapers. It’s an odd mix, ancient walls backed by glass-and-steel towers, but it works.
Eventually, I arrived at the castle itself. It isn’t the original structure because it has been rebuilt, but it is a great sight from most angles. You’ll get your best photos if you arrive either early or late in the day; less crowds equals fewer people to block the shots plus better lighting.
Kuromon Market
I got my wish: Kuromon Market was busy, loud, crowded.
.. Exactly as I’d hoped. When I arrived at mid morning, the covered arcades were full of people weaving in and out of the stalls.
The seafood on display was incredibly fresh. They had oysters being shucked on demand, giant crab legs, and whole fish on ice. One of the vendors had sashimi so I grabbed a box and stood and ate it.
That appears to be the done thing here. A few stalls down, I spotted another takoyaki maker, their huge iron griddle going full blast, the vendor quickly flipping balls of batter that sizzled and sputtered. the smell is pure soy sauce and grilled seafood, and it’s the sort of place where you find yourself eating far more than you intended because everything looks delicious.
Ichiran Ramen
I’ve never been to Ichiran until this visit to the Osaka location. Like they say, their single-booth set-up is highly efficient. You order from a ticket machine before you even sit down…
I got the ramen and a cola. Then an electronic board shows which seats are free. Despite being packed, the entire system is impressively streamlined.
After sitting down, you complete a sheet with selections like noodle firmness, garlic strength, and broth thickness. My tonkotsu ramen came fairly swiftly, and it did not disappoint. The broth was rich and silky, the meaty pork was tender, and the noodles were chewy enough to stand up to the soup.
I finished the whole bowl easily. Not exactly a place to hang around and chat, but if you just want a decent bowl of ramen fast, this is your spot.
Tempozan Takoyaki and Abura Soba
In the harbour area I wandered into Tempozan Takoyaki and abura soba. The menu is fairly simple, with takoyaki sets, abura soba selections, and a brief selection of drinks including draft beer for 650 yen. After reading it, I thought I’d try it out.
Since I came to Osaka, after all, I figured I should eat some takoyaki, even if only once per day. Out they came: piping hot, covered in that familiar zig zag pattern of mayo, and full of octopus. They were crispy on the outside and nearly molten on the inside.
Like any idiot, I burned my mouth on the initial bite, but kept going nonetheless. Nothing fancy here, just good ol’ takoyaki done well in a no-frills location.
Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan
As aquariums go, Kaiyukan is larger than I expected and the whale shark tank really is impressive. There’s a spiral path that takes you down through various ecosystems, and I stuck to it, but come on: I went for the whale sharks. You get several levels of views descending into the main tank where you’ll have a chance to view them.
It’s quite surreal to see a whale shark pass by, occasionally accompanied by some manta rays cruising along. They are huge creatures but glide in the water so calmly. I stood looking at them loop around the viewing windows for about half of my time here.
That central tank is what makes this place special. The many other exhibits are all well done, and the aquarium does a nice job with their diversity.
Namba Yasaka Shrine
I was just wandering around what appeared to be a normal neighbourhood, passed the stone torii gate, and then BAM…this giant lion head structure looms over the courtyard. It’s a stage (the lion’s mouth acts as the entry) and in person, it’s much larger and more dramatic than even in photographs. Supposedly, the whole structure is designed to “swallow” bad luck.
People were running around snapping pictures from all angles, trying to fit the entire head into their shots. While the shrine itself is tiny (you can explore the entire thing in twenty minutes or so), that lion head alone makes it worth visiting!
Shitennoji Temple
A break from the noise of the city came at Shitennoji Temple.
Passing through its main gate, I entered a sprawling complex complete with a five-story pagoda visible from various corridors. Symmetry is everywhere in its central courtyard: the main hall and pagoda are aligned and there is a pleasant arrangement of plants and rocks as well.
Afterward, I wandered into the Gokuraku garden, where a pond features a stone bridge and various plants and rocks carefully positioned around the area. When I visited, it was quiet with only a handful of others on the paths. While not enormous, the garden is well-kept and provides a little breathing space.
Overall, the temple had a calm, grounding feel about it that contrasts nicely against the rest of Osaka. I stumbled upon Tennoji Zoo and didn’t really expect much from it, but I ended up liking it more than I expected.
It’s pretty small (the whole place could fit into most zoos) but with a good variety of animals.
I loved the animal banners at the gate, they let you know you’ve come to the right spot. Once inside, I spotted the lion lounging on his rock completely unfazed as people watched him.
Tennoji Zoo
I thought the polar bear exhibit was pretty cool, apparently he doesn’t swim in the water all the time, but when I went there he was! Compared to some other modern zoos, this one is a little old-school, but it is cheap and a good way to spend an hour or two if you are nearby.
Umeda Sky Building
The view from the top really is something. It’s a unique-looking building, with two towers connected at the top, and the view from the observation deck offers a 360-degree view of Osaka after dark. You can even step outside onto the outdoor Sky Walk section (which is cool but also a bit unnerving if the wind picks up).
I saw that they have the Fence of Vows covered in love locks, apparently that’s a thing at every observation deck now? Anyway, it was worth the price of the ticket for the panorama of the city spreading out in every direction, all those buildings and lights. I ended up staying up there longer than planned, just taking it all in.
Tsutenkaku Tower
It’s got this quirky charm to it. The tower is all lit up against the evening sky, and I looked up at it from the entrance gate before walking inside.
The highlight here is probably the Billiken statue… This golden guy whose feet you’re supposed to rub for good luck. Everybody does it, so the feet are completely polished smooth.
You can go up to the observation deck for a decent view of the surrounding area, though it is not as high as some others in the city.
Shinsekai
At night, the tower gets illuminated. It looks best from street level down in the Shinsekai district below. Tsutenkaku sits at the centre of Shinsekai, the neighbourhood which has that wonderfully old-town/chaotic atmosphere.
As soon as you walk in through its archway, it hits you: fried food smells, neon signs, restaurant banners everywhere. Izakayas and kushikatsu joints line the streets, each with signage more and more outrageous to try and get you inside. My favourite thing here is the giant octopus sculpture on top of one of the takoyaki shops, it’s just the kind of over-the-top decoration that makes this place fun.
The entire district is like a step back in time. Some of this is certainly playing up to the retro angle for tourists, but it still has character. Above it all stands Tsutenkaku Tower.
Dotonbori
Osaka’s most popular street, Dotonbori, didn’t disappoint.
At night, I wandered along the canal with neon signs reflecting off the water. It was a wonderful sensory overload.
The Kani Doraku building houses one of Osaka’s most famous landmarks: the giant mechanical crab. As it moved its legs, I watched and couldn’t help but find it oddly fascinating. Further down, I stumbled upon the Kuidaore Taro drummer statue…
Another old-school mascot that’s been around forever, and, of course, the Glico Running Man billboard. You can’t come to Dotonbori without taking a photo of that! It’s packed full of people, bars, and restaurants.
Everyone is snapping photos. The whole area is genuinely lively and fun (though, yes, touristy).
Dotonbori River Cruise
The river cruise around Dotonbori is also fun. You can take the Osaka Bus Wonder Cruise from the Nippombashi pier for the Dotonbori River Cruise. It’s a small boat that sits real low in the water, as you’d expect given how many bridges we go underneath.
Taking the cruise at night is really cool; Dotonbori looks so different from the water, all of those billboards and neon signs look far more dramatic from below. We cruised under some bridges, past the famous Glico sign (seen from behind), and at one point I spotted the lit-up Don Quijote Ferris wheel up ahead. The entire cruise lasts maybe 20 minutes, but it’s a nice change of pace from battling with the crowds on the streets.
Yakiniku no Dendo Kiyomizu Hall
One of my better meals in Osaka was at yakiniku no Dendo Kiyomizu Hall. This place is in a stand alone building and as soon as I approached the door I knew I was in for something a little better than your average yakiniku spot. We ordered their premium wagyu platter, which came out on a wooden board marked with labels identifying each cut.
Some of them had ridiculous amounts of marbling. Half the fun was grilling them on our own table and seeing the meat get all caramelized and the fat melt out. Every single cut had a different taste, some were rich and buttery while others were more chewy and lean.
Sure, it wasn’t cheap, but the quality showed, and I felt it was money well spent. Down a flight of stairs (always promising), I discovered a restaurant called Wagyu to Buta shabu-shabu. The cute cow drawing on the exterior sign told me exactly what they specialized in.
Wagyu to Buta Shabu-shabu
For our shabu-shabu we ordered some pork and some wagyu and were pleased to see the meat presented in a flower pattern on the plate, a nice touch. Swishing each thin slice of it around the bubbling hot pot, cooking it until barely opaque, was a satisfyingly hands-on activity. The pork was good, but as you’d expect, the wagyu was clearly the star.
It was tender and flavorful but not heavy. It’s a cosy spot, perfect for a chilly evening.
Chikuyotei Unagi Restaurant
An unagi specialist where I’d read good reports. It had that classic noren curtain at the door, and it was calm and focused inside. I decided to have the unaju (grilled eel on rice presented in a lacquered box).
The unaju came out and the eel was glistening with the tare sauce, marked in places by the grill. It was soft, yet still had some crispness around the edges. Sweet and salty, not overly cloying, the sauce didn’t overpower either.
They also had takeaway boxes on display, which were tempting, but I’m glad I dined in.
Unagi this good should be consumed freshly cooked and hot.
Universal Studios Japan
A visit to Universal Studios Japan meant a day-long commitment, and I went in aware that it would be packed.
First up was Hogsmeade.
While I’d seen the Wizarding World set-up previously, the castle overlooking the area (Hogwarts) and snow on the rooftops made it look impressive anyway. My main pull here was Super Nintendo World, the entire area is designed as if you’re in a Mario game, and they really pay attention to details. Outside of that, I walked around Minion Park.
It was filled with children and had these huge Minion statues outside the entrance.
It’s a popular park that fills up quickly. Having a plan and going early will help. Despite the crowds, it’s a fun day out.
teamLab Botanical Garden Osaka
Finally, we went to teamLab Botanical Garden.
.. Which is a completely digital light installation in an outdoor garden. As soon as you enter, all of the trees surrounding you begin to change colour.
And they continue doing so. Everything around you is lights and things reacting to your presence. Trees light up in synchronized pulses.
Even a lake reflects everything back at you like a warped mirror. There are interactive parts too where touching something or getting closer causes them to shift. it’s one of those experiences that sounds weird but really works when you do it.
I spent roughly an hour wandering the grounds. Although it is very much made with Instagram in mind, it was actualy quite fun to simply roam and let the lights dance.
Koji Kinutani Tenku Art Museum
On a more quiet afternoon, I took myself off for a visit to the Koji Kinutana Tenku Art Museum, a little museum devoted to the work of one modern artist. The lobby was calm and felt like a gallery, with great curved walls. The entrance was the same, featuring sun artwork on an illuminated curtain.
I purchased my ticket and wandered around the exhibits: they were all pieces by Kinutana himself. Bold compositions using a lot of colour and movement. There was a painting of Osaka Castle at sunrise, fitting since the museum itself is located in the city.
You could see everything in less than an hour. It is certainly no huge museum, but it is worth popping into if you are looking for something different than your typical castle-and-temple circuit or if you like contemporary art.
Mocha Cat Cafe
One of the stop on my trip was Mocha Cat Cafe. By this point, after all the sightseeing and walking around, all I wanted to do was sit in a room filled with cats, and they definitely delivered. There is a large glass window to view some of the cats from outside the building, as well as posters of cats at the entrance.
Once inside, there are cats everywhere, on top of shelves, curled up on sofas, roaming among the tables. I ended up hanging out mostly with a very fluffy cat who had taken over an entire sofa and showed no signs of wanting to move. There was even a cat dressed up as a little Christmas elf, ridiculous and yet somehow super-cute.
You can buy hours at the cafe (and drink coffee/tea/etc while doing so), and it’s a nice place to relax for an afternoon if you’re tired of the city and love cats. I didn’t know much about Osaka before going. I imagined nothing but neon and food (and lots of both).
But Osaka was even more diverse than I’d thought: there were museums worth visiting, quieter temples, and…lots of costumed cats! There were some hits and some misses, but hey, that’s travel. Overall, I had fun, put a few miles on my feet, and came back with a bit more knowledge of the beat of the city.
So have you visited Osaka yet? What did I miss out on and where else should I head next?
