In my one day there I got to tick the three big items off my list. I visited the bamboo grove that everyone takes pictures of, went to the monkey park high atop the hill, and took a traditional boat down the river. It was a lot to fit into a single day but if you are an early riser and willing to put in some miles of walking, then it is completely doable.
Arashiyama gets really busy, particularly the bamboo grove. I think they have their own charm. I’m happy I took the time to visit them all.
Here’s what you can expect at each place and how it felt for me. While not all of it was as memorable as other things, that’s just how travel is.
My One Day Trip to Arashiyama
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
When I reached the bamboo grove around mid-morning, it was already packed with other visitors. You wind your way in from a more quiet wooded section before entering the main grove, so I had a minute or two to get used to things before the masses came pouring in.
Inside the grove, though, there’s really tall bamboo, like very tall. That’s all grown in closely on either side of the path. It’s kind of striking how the stalks cross over and lean on each other above your head, so I kept looking up.
The only problem was, you were never alone in there. I expected it to be busy, but wow, the path moved at a crawl as everyone stopped for photos. There were times when I tried to go off the beaten path to shoot around the crowds, but mostly I just went along with it and walked slowly through.
While there is no real main path, you could walk the entire thing in ten or fifteen minutes without stopping, I kind of wandered around, back and forth, hoping to get away from most of the crowd. It never really happened. Regardless, I still liked it.
Even with all the people and the noise, there’s just something nice about walking through so many bamboo trees. For those looking for a more quiet time, I’d suggest going either super-early in the morning or at the end of the day (though it’s not like it’ll ever be empty).
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Thinking that it would be an easy walk, I strolled over to the entrance of the monkey park. Instead, the very first thing you encounter is a lengthy series of stone steps leading upward. While it wasn’t terrible, just a constant incline, they took me by surprise, and I had already broken a sweat by the time I reached the ticket booth.
Just before the ticket booth there is a little shrine and some lanterns, which were nice.
It’s quiet and sort of beautiful in the area around the shrine. After passing through a wall of wooden plaques and then a purification basin, I arrived at the ticket window and actual entrance to the park.
The price of admission was about 550 yen. It included a pamphlet that explained how to feed the monkeys and what not to do, which was basically to stay away from them outside the feeding area. After that, I continued hiking upward, and soon enough I began spotting monkeys in the trees and just hanging out along the trail.
As I went farther up, the monkeys were literally everywhere, lounging on the handrails, grooming one another, totally unfazed by anyone walking by. While I maintained my space respectfully, they didn’t seem bothered by me; they weren’t skittish or aggressive. They simply went about their business.
What I really liked about it was the view from the top. On a good day, you can see all over Kyoto. You can also get a good view of the city.
It’s a pretty wide view. It made me catch my breath and stand there for awhile and take it all in.
There is a feeding hut where you purchase little bags of apple slices/peanuts and then feed the monkeys from wire mesh windows. It’s all set up with safety in mind (you are inside and they are outside). They are well-trained to know what happens here: they go straight up to the window, stick their hands in, and take whatever food you throw them.
I fed some and watched others do the same. While it was slightly strange to be caged in as the monkeys ran around freely, I suppose that’s the point.
After spending perhaps half an hour up there, I made my way back down. By now the monkeys had relaxed completely and were still hanging out in the pond and around the plaza. Going down was much more difficult on the knees than on the lungs.
In total, it took me roughly an hour and a half to do the whole park (including getting up there and the time up top).
Hozugawa River Boat Ride
Note: The actual launch point of your boat trip isn’t in Arashiyama… It’s a town about a twenty-minute train ride from there called Kameoka. To reach it, I caught the local train and walked over to the departure building, located directly next to the river.
The reception hall felt like a little museum, full of old pictures and other displays talking about the history of the river boats. At the counter, I picked up my ticket then stood in line. I noticed groups were being organized based off which boat they were on.
There were also some info panels explaining what we’d be seeing and where we’re going.
There were even a couple gachapon machines in the waiting room if you want to while away the time. I got myself a coffee from the tiny shop and waited for my boarding call.
They had this audio guide app that you can download that provides commentary throughout the ride. I did that and scanned the QR code on my boarding pass to get it queued up. Then down to the river I went.
Traditional wooden boats have low benches for seating, are long and narrow, and is moved by a pair of boatmen using long wooden oars to pole and push the craft. And we’re off, steaming into a heavy morning mist that added a certain amount of atmosphere to the entire scene. At first it was just me and the calm river, with barely any visibility around the cliffs on each side.
The fog began to clear as we continued downriver and the gorge expanded around us. At times we encountered shallow spots and rocks, and the boatmen would yell back and forth adjusting their poles accordingly. For the most part, it’s a slow but gentle ride…
Nothing like a thrilling rapids experience, more of a scenic float.
The river widened out again, with a couple little rapids that bumped up the speed and made the water a little choppier but not dramatically so. Mostly, though, it was a quiet river with forested hillsides and the sound of the oars scraping along the side of the boat. The mist continued to clear, letting the sunlight come through intermittently, and in places you could see down into the rocks below the clear water.
All told, the ride lasted around two hours and deposited us back at Arashiyama (where I’d begun my day). As I got off the boat, my legs were slightly sore from sitting, but I was otherwise happy that I had done it. While the boat ride might be one of those gimmicky tourist things you do, I actualy really enjoyed it, it was pretty relaxing, and the guys on the boats definitely know their stuff.
It’s a good way to get another perspective on the gorge and on the river itself. You can visit Arashiyama in a day, although you will be moving! By the end, I was pretty tired from the boat ride and returning into town.
The three spots each have their own draw. The bamboo grove may be crowded, but it’s an iconic spot. The monkey park gets you up close with the animals, and there’s a great view after the climb.
The boat ride shows you a more quiet and slow-paced side of the region. If I only got to see one, I’d probably skip the bamboo grove because it’s the shortest and most hectic, but truthfully I’m happy that I saw all three. Is Arashiyama on your list, or have you been?
What would you make time for, and what would you drop?
