Every New Zealand Lake I Stopped At on the South Island

I drove around the South Island for a week for my own sake. And to be honest, it became quite the lake tour. There was another one with crystal-clear water backed by mountains around each bend, and I pulled over every time.

Some were glacier-fed and turquoise. Others were so calm you could see your reflection in the mirror of sky above. Then there were those with icebergs floating on top of them.

To be fair, I’m not complaining, this really is some of the most striking scenery I have seen, and they’re worth making the drive for alone. From Tekapo up to Wanaka, that’s all the lakes I actualy stopped at. I’d never even heard of most of them until I planned out this trip, but they proved to be the highlight.

My Lake Tour on the South Island

Astro Cafe (Mount John)

Mount John was mostly about the view for me. However, there’s a cafe at the summit that was a pleasant surprise. The entire structure is surrounded by windows (and sits next to the observatory), allowing you to look out over Lake Tekapo as you sip on your coffee.

After getting a flat white, I sat outside for awhile and soaked everything in; how small we are.

From here you can see how unreal this lake is: It’s that glacial blue-green color that’s so bright you kind of think it might be fake. Even though it’s summertime, there’s still snow hanging on the tops of the peaks along the far shore of the lake, which are part of the Southern Alps. The views all around the summit loop were cool enough to stop and take pictures of in each direction.

The wind was a bit strong up at the top, so although it may be warm down in town, bring a jacket up here.

Church of the Good Shepherd

Located in Tekapo, this little stone church just on the lakeshore has become one of those postcard shots for good reason. When I arrived, mid afternoon, there were already a couple of other people wandering around taking photos. It’s small (just one room, basically) but the location does all the work.

And then I went in for a moment, and here is what the lake and mountains look like from the altar. It’s such a nice touch of architecture, it makes the view itself part of the room. People were being respectful and quiet, so I didn’t stay long, but it’s worth a quick look if you’re there.

By the time I returned later at sunset, it had gotten much lighter out. Cloud layers made the sky look dramatic, and everything softened up. Tekapo is also a dark sky reserve, so this place is popular for night photography as well, though I didn’t stay until that late.

A lot of the beach there was simply rocks, and I walked around quite a bit.

Lake Tekapo Surrounding

It’s such clear water that you could see all the stones on the bottom, and it changes in colour with the light and depth. Some people had built stacks of rocks (cairns) up along some of the rockier sections. This is a slightly trendy thing to do now, but they look good for photos anyway.

I also walked out on another peninsula/spit that stuck further out into the water. From there you can get an idea of how big the lake is and what’s on the other side. There are some single pine trees dotting the area which would be nice foreground elements if that’s your thing.

To be honest though, you could walk along the shore here for hours looking for new views.

I loved seeing sunset in Tekapo. The lake got all glassy and the clouds lit up with warm colors. I hung out on the rocks watching it.

Nothing to complain about.

Mackenzie Sheep Dog Statue

Just outside the church is a statue of a collie made out of bronze: it’s a tribute to the sheepdogs who have worked this high country. The statue itself is nicely done. Note the detail in the fur and the alert posture.

It’s a sweet tribute.

When I returned in the evening, the statue stood out as a great silhouette against the sky. With the low sun, it lit up from behind and the entire structure was pretty dramatic. It is a small stop for sure, but it is right there and worth taking a quick photo.

Mt Cook Alpine Salmon

Stopped here mostly for the lake. Pukaki is stunning. If you can imagine, maybe even more so than Tekapo!

There’s something about the glacial flour that catches the light in such an intense way. And then there’s Aoraki (Mount Cook) in the background (a pretty great spot to pull over).

This is a salmon farm shop on the shore of Lake Pukaki. If you purchase items at the shop, there are some outdoor picnic tables where you can sit and enjoy your meal. Lots of people were eating smoked fish and sashimi; I didn’t do that this time, I only went there for the view!

But I did wander down closer to the water, as the shore is also rock and easily accessible.

Near the lookout is also a bronze tahr statue, another reference to the animals who inhabit the high country. The lake behind it makes for a good photo op.

Blue Lakes

The name is slightly deceptive: Blue Lakes are not blue at all but instead have a milky pale green color (it’s glacial melt).

All the rock flour floating around gives it that cloudiness. There’s a small mountain lake on the Tasman Glacier track that made for a nice break.

I went up there on my hike to the viewpoint of the glacier.

It was still early in the day when I stopped by, but even then the surface ice was only thinly formed, with just a skim that would crack beneath my fingertips, no good for bearing any weight at all. It was cool to get up close and look at how starkly white the ice was against the pale water below it.

Tasman Glacier

You can see all of the Tasman Lake in front of you. That is where the glacier ends and the icebergs come from. You can also see the smaller Blue Lake tarn on top of the moraine.

it’s impossible to appreciate how massive the lake is from pictures, it’s enormous! And the valley just opens up and goes back into the mountains.

It’s this milky turquoise color, and the icebergs that float on top are white and light blue. And some of them are the size of small cars! I spent some time walking around the moraine to view it from various perspectives, and the view just kept opening up.

It’s one of those places where you really have to be there to get a sense of its size.

Tasman River Track

For another angle of the lake I hiked the Tasman River Track which has a pretty satisfying reveal around the corner.

You see all the lake in one shot with icebergs littering the surface. It’s an easy walk (mostly flat) and gets better as you near the water.

It was also very blue out there! There were some pretty cool icebergs that had blue tones to their shadow sides and some really sculptural jagged edges. They just slowly drifted along in the current, so I just watched them for awhile.

The entire scene was quite otherworldly, and in spots where it was glassy on the water, you could see reflections of everything.

The colour is a combination of silt and rock from the lakeshore, and walking down to the shore helped me see it more clearly. Up close, the milky turquoise is even more vibrant than before. Walking all that way was worth it, it’s quite a different experience from the view from the moraine.

Glenorchy Wharf

Smaller and quieter than Queenstown, Glenorchy is located at the top (north) end of Lake Wakatipu. On a calm day, I drove up there one morning and found the entire lake glassy smooth. Mountains rose steeply in every direction, with an old wooden wharf jutting out into the water.

There’s a lone tree near the shore that makes for a classic reflection shot, so I spent a little time meandering about soaking up the silence. The water reflected everything clearly, including the clouds, the bare trees, and the mountain tops. Places like this are good.

Lake Wakatipu

You can sit back and relax. You don’t have to do much except be present and soak it all in. The biggest attraction back in Queenstown itself is Lake Wakatipu.

I spent a few days in the city base here and wandered the lakefront a number of times. It’s full of hotels, cafes and jetties. You can head down on the long timber piers to get out over the water and see the town from another perspective.

The shoreline also has some patches of parkland that have benches set beneath the trees, allowing you to simply sit and enjoy the view of the water. Unlike the other glacial lakes farther north, this one is dark and deep, with the hills around it covered in snow during my visit. It’s a more developed, busier lakefront, but pretty in its own right.

Queenstown Gardens

One afternoon I simply walked out of the town centre to get some fresh air at Queenstown Gardens.

This is an area of open parkland with big old trees and walking paths winding around it. It’s a peninsula jutting out into Lake Wakatipu.

There’s a traditional black iron gate as you enter and then, inside, it feels unexpectedly peaceful considering how near to town you are.

There are great views over the lake from the gardens. The view feels more natural than looking out from the town waterfront, which is all tarmac and concrete. There are trees and grass in front of you, and then a big sweep of mountain and water behind.

I had a seat for a bit and admired the changing light. It is a good place to spend a quiet half an hour.

Queenstown Surrounding

Aside from walking along the streets and waterfront, I also spent some time in the local gardens and exploring the lakeside cafes and hotels. There’s nothing overwhelming about it. The restaurants and bars on the lakeside were busy.

Meanwhile, the water is crystal clear, at least in the shallows, and you can see what’s below.

Along the more quiet sections of shoreline are houses and even boats moored at the jetties. Queenstown has a bit of a resort-town feel, but the lake and mountains do most of the heavy lifting. The scenery does most of the work.

And I liked it more then anticipated.

That Wanaka Tree

It is probably the most photographed tree in New Zealand. A willow grows straight out of Lake Wanaka and has become a bit of an icon. I visited early one morning when fewer people were around, but even then there were a couple of others setting up their tripods.

When I went to check it out, there wasn’t a leaf on the tree; however, that only highlighted the branches more against the backdrop of the sky and water. It is a basic scene with a lake, mountains, and the tree, but it works. No wonder they continue to return here to shoot photos.

I got some shots in various directions before leaving it for the next person.

Edgewater Hotel Wanaka

My accommodation: I stayed at the Edgewater in Wanaka. The biggest selling point is its location. It’s directly on the lake and the views from the hotel itself were among the most spectacular that I saw during this trip.

Check-in was simple and the lobby is comfortable and moddern.

The best part though is the front yard; which faces the lake. In the afternoons I headed out to the pebble beach and sat there awhile, staring at the water and the mountains across the way. A bare willow along the edge provided a nice foreground.

I’m glad I chose this place instead of something in town; it’s a peaceful spot.

Wanaka Street

Before the area got crowded I had a couple of mornings to stroll on the lakeshore here in Wanaka. The morning light was soft. It was quiet.

The water was still and clear, and a handful of houseboats were tied up to the beach. It all just seemed very peaceful. One morning, I took a walk along the entire length of the public beach area that is backed by tall poplar trees on the lakeside.

It’s a wide-open view over the lake with the mountains always in the background. I also found Wanaka to be less busy than Queenstown and liked the more relaxed atmosphere. I liked it so much for one big reason: the lake.

All of these places were strung together by those South Island lakes. They all had their personalities; some were bright and glacial, some were calm and reflective… But they were all worth a stop.

I am already wondering which ones I would revisit if I ever do this drive again. If you’ve done the South Island drive, what lakes did you visit, and which ones did I miss?