First things first: One Tree Hill no longer have a tree. It does have a stump, an obelisk, a lot of history, and one of those views that make you understand what made people settle in Auckland where they did. I had heard its name forever…
Mostly from the U2 song, if I’m honest; but as it turns out, it was a quiet, slightly melancholy walk through a city volcano that had more story than I expected when I finaly climbed it. On an overcast afternoon we climbed, and the low grey clouds hid the summit. It was an easy walk.
The monument atop it were strangely touching. it was somehow more about what isn’t there than what is. It was in a good way.
From there I walked up.
A Quiet Walk Up One Tree Hill
One Tree Hill
It’s well marked and sealed, starting from entrance to Cornwall Park, where I’d parked. The gentle uphill walk, lined with large old trees and wide open parklands, gave me time to appreciate the space as I walked. Want to drive to the top?
Sure. But it felt right to walk, nothing too steep, just a gradual incline that takes some time. The park itself is massive and green, the sort of place where locals comes to run and families spread out their picnic blanket on weekends.
The path became more gravel as we climbed further and the clouds gets heavier above us. There were only a few other hikers up there, everyone trudging along at their own pace, pausing to take in the views or to catch their breath. Everything was a little moody with the weather, it was all quiet and a bit dramatic, the city down below coming and going from view.
And then you get to the stump. There it is, all hollowed out and weathered, fenced off and sitting there on the hillside, and yeah, it’s sadder than I thought it would of be. Apparently the original tree; a totara.
Was felled in 1852. Then they puts a Monterey pine in its place. It grew into the famed “one tree” that everyone knew, but it was later attacked and finally has to be taken away in 2000.
Now all we have is this little remnant, carved up and hanging low to the ground, but people still come by and stand beside it and take pictures and look at it. For some reason, seeing how the wood has split and aged, its grain somehow makes the entire tale seem more realer. And then behind it you see the city stretching out in all directions.
The contrast is kind of striking.
As you continue upward, you see the obelisk first among the bare branches and then suddenly there it is, right before your eyes at the top.
From there we continued upwards along the last stretch of basalt steps to the monument itself. It is simple but solid: a tall stone obelisk that sits on a stepped plinth. It dominate the top of the hill.
There were a couple of other visitor resting at its base, leaning against the stone and catching their breath. The monument was put up in 1940. It was paid for by Sir John Logan Campbell, who also gave the land to the city, in honour of the Māori people.
It has a Māori warrior at its base, and if you look up from underneath the obelisk it simply vanishes into the cloud. Standing atop it feels solemn and even lonely. There are no flash displays here, nothing grand about it other than heavy intention.
Then, right there at the summit, is where Campbell lies himself (his grave a plain granite slab). Around it are some slightly weathered bronze plaques, their writing green with age and difficult to decipher. I gave up trying to read what’s on them.
But somehow having them there, in place, another element of the memorial, makes it all the richerer.
Most people visit for the views from the top. And even with all that cloud, they didn’t disappoint. The city centre was off to one side.
Ahead were the suburbs, and behind me were distant hills. Below was the harbour, stretching out as far as the eye could see. Up on the terrace at the summit, other visitors stands at the railing, some snapping photos while others simply gazed.
And then there’s another grave, draped in fresh flowers, which means that the entire summit is this blend of memorial space and public lookout. You can also walk around the entire circuit of the road looping around the top, allowing you to take in the city from every angle. I saw a little pile of rocks on the ground on my way down the grassy slope, it said “kia kaha” (stay strong) in paint.
There were little things like that all over… Subtle signs that this hill was more than just a nice vantage point for people. While not exactly a place that will blow you away with facilities or things to do, a trip to One Tree Hill is definitely worth it if you’re interested in learning a little something about the history of Auckland.
The walk is easy, the monument itself is surprisingly moving, and the view (cloud or no cloud) really helps you get a feel for how the city is set out. Take your time, bring a jacket, and maybe read a little about the site and its history beforehand, it just makes the entire experience more richer. Have you been up One Tree Hill?
What other lookouts would you recommend in Auckland?
